Losing adhesion towards end of tall, thin print

Hi all -

I’m trying to print this Myst switch stand on my A350.

I can get the print started fine, and have successfully gotten to about 85% complete (to where the angled top plate starts) a few times - but at that point, the combination of short, detailed moves, plus a tall model, plus a relatively small contact patch has caused it to come lose every time.

First attempt was 80% scale, SM high speed profile (got from this forum), Cura slicer. That failed where the angled plate started.
I printed it larger (100%) and slowed it down (SM normal profile), it still came loose.
I tried adding glue stick, it still came loose.
I increased bed temp to 60C, it still came loose.

Anyone have any tips for when short, quick movements at the top of a long, thin model cause the base to wiggle free?

Like, ideally, I’d want to say “Once you get past layer 123, set the travel speed to 50%” or something like that.

Thanks for any ideas!

Have you tried to print with a brim? It would enlarge the area of contact to the buildplate to your needs.

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Ah, thank you for the question - yes, I gave it a brim that I thought was fairly significant - 8 or 10 rows. I can try it again with a much much larger one, like 50 rows or something. Thanks for the suggestion!

I would’ve thought that 35mm square base would’ve been enough for that height, without a brim.

I don’t think you need to make your brim that large. You might go for a slightly larger brim and enable “Z hop when retracted” in the Travel section. That’ll tell the printer to raise the nozzle when it travels, hopefully avoiding hitting the parts.

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You might be over extruding a bit, which over time is adding a little build up that the nozzle is bumping.

maybe try reducing flow rate a tad, and also make sure to enable z hop

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Thanks - z-hop had not been enabled, so I just turned that on and am trying another very simple print (which actually failed earlier today).

After that I think I need to calibrate both extruder and filament diameter. After that will be turning down the extrusion a little, but first let’s see what calibrating the extruder gets me. Thanks for the help!

esteps and linear advance will make a night and day difference

and slicer flow calibration as described will also help a lot

this site will detail all of these and more

Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration (teachingtechyt.github.io)

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Have you tried printing a temp tower?
Or bumping up 5º?
As you get away from the heated bed it can sometimes need more heat or at least more sensitive if it’s on the cold end.
This combined with not having extruder calibrated can all add up.
-S

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Resolution:
I was overextruding by a TON.

Full details here, but after I calibrated e-steps, I got this beauty out of it:

Some stringing I’ll need to clean up, since I still need to print a temp tower but I think I’m back in business. Thanks all!

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Ooooh, Myst.

It’s a very pleasant surprise to see that here!