Inspired by all the Klicky probes out there. I wanted to be able to level on anything reliably with simple install.
Proximity probes affected by heat. Stock probe doesn’t actually probe the surface. IR probes require heavy wiring mods on our machine.
Why klicky probes are so good - Six popular ABL probes compared: Accuracy, price, wiring and more! - YouTube
This probe doesn’t require any extra electrical components but the $3 switch. Simple wiring - a 12 year old can do.
I’m using magnets for deployment. Yes you have to move the probe down before leveling and hide it after.
You might ask - how come it doesn’t shift when probing? You need 70gr to klick the switch and >200gr to move the magnets. Clearances and friction will do the rest.
The part cooling duct had to be redesigned a bit and can use some improvement. You can avoit printing it and just cut your existing duct to be able to fit the probe. In my Gen2 extruder that part is not used for air anyway.
If there is enough demand, I can put together a kit for sale (including international) - wired switch with proper JST connector and magnets. Labor would be the 80% of the price.
Using stock build surface with craters and bumps between probing points will not give you much advantage. Just use stock probe if you not planning to use glass/garolite or other surface to print on.
It took me solid 80 hours to create the design, most of it went into recreating the extruder in CAD.
- Forget the shimming the bed all day to get the delta under 0.09.
- Use any surface that can provide true leveling calculation i.e. has no bumps and craters.
- Make it minimal and somewhat stealth.
|Magnets||10mm X 5mm||3pcs||https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBG1aNr|
|CA Glue||Any||3 drops||https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DejhHLr|
Use your favorite PETG/ASA/ABS.
I printed out of PETG - works just fine.
You have to know how to print details and somewhat accurate dimensions.
Use 0.2mm height. 100% infill for Slider and Heatsink Duct.
I used PrusaSlicer. You only need tree supports for slider magnet insert and part cooling duct (largest cavity). But I guess luban can print this stuff too.
STLs are not oriented - DIY.
Cleanup parts, check magnets fitment. Dry fit slider and the side cover. It should have smooth action, up and down.
Knob has little dimple inside - it should meet the dent in the slider to secure itself on it. Expect satisfying click.
Nothing changed for machine’s brains. The process is the same.
Slide the probe down, start leveling, when prompted by machine to set Z-offset - slide the probe up and set the z-offset.
I even run some sort of reliability test - same everything - multiple leveling runs
Fun part for those who reads everything - if you want to test this - I have two switches (pre wired with connector) and two sets of magnets - send me a shipping label(pirateship.com) get them for free. PM me.
This is on Garolite.
- Namakemono - for 3D Models for A350,A250, A350T platforms and A350 Beds that sped up the design.
- MooseJuice - for help in understanding the wiring.
- All the klicky probes authors for inspiration.
- Make a kit for sale - Wired switch + Magnets
- Make a kit for sale - Printed Assembled Components + Wired switch
- I don’t need a kit - will handle wiring and sourcing.
- Does it work with Bi Metal heat Break?
- YES - always check clearance
- Will it work with aftemarket MK8 Nozzle
- YES - always check clearance
- Can I level on __________(insert material)
- Do I need to change anything in the firmware?
- Will this work with extruder Gen 1?
- YES - use UNIVERSAL file.
- Do I have to use - WS0850100F070PA switch?
- YES - if you want to use stl files provided.
- Make part cooling duct better.
P.S. Where is the STL??? Read BOM.
7.21.23 - updated assembly instructions - added missing knob and rearranged steps.
7.24.23 - updated print cooling duct STL, now fits both GEN 1 and GEN2 extruders. Thanks to Win3002 for bolt pattern scan!