Issues with Autoleveling

Snapmaker 2.0
1

Hi all,

Can anyone explain to me how the autoleveling function works?

I recently had an issue which necesitated exchanging the hotend unit. I have needed to do this a couple of times and never had any issues. This time, however, when I turned the printer back on and ran the calibration, the autolevel function didn’t appear to work right.

Before the issue, I don’t recall the print head touching the build-plate. Now it touches at point 4 and 6, and really presses down at point 5. It never did this before, and when I try to print something, the printhead will literally drag across the surface of the buildplate in that quadrant.

I don’t understand what is different. Nothing has changed with the placement of the printer, and I have changed the hotend numerous times, so I don’t see how that would affect it. So I’d like to know what the process is for the calibration cycle. Is the print head supposed to touch the buildplate? Is there a sensor that may not be working properly?

Is there a way to manually level the buildplate?

Should I open a ticket with support?

Any help is appreciated.

2

It seems likely that A.) the hotend isnt fully inserted into the 3dp module or B.) the prox sensor has shifted from its proper position

there is a sensor on it, its the little black rectangle that sticks out under the print head.

if you put something metal right up to it, it show glow red.

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Sorry for not replying sooner.

You were right. The prox sensor was shifted. Resetting the screw corrected the issue.

2 Likes
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This has happened to me as well, and it freaked me out. The hotend ground a huge groove in the print sheet.

Just in case someone else makes the same mistake I did, I’ll post what my problem was. It was the tightening screw that locks the shaft of the hotend in place. I totally missed it (it’s behind the door on the front of the print head unit, little black tightening screw…). Without that screw being tightened, the hotend nozzle would drop a couple of mm as it heated up.

It would be really nice if Snapmaker put an updated video on changing the hotend for the 2.0 model.

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