Issues with Autoleveling

Hi all,

Can anyone explain to me how the autoleveling function works?

I recently had an issue which necesitated exchanging the hotend unit. I have needed to do this a couple of times and never had any issues. This time, however, when I turned the printer back on and ran the calibration, the autolevel function didn’t appear to work right.

Before the issue, I don’t recall the print head touching the build-plate. Now it touches at point 4 and 6, and really presses down at point 5. It never did this before, and when I try to print something, the printhead will literally drag across the surface of the buildplate in that quadrant.

I don’t understand what is different. Nothing has changed with the placement of the printer, and I have changed the hotend numerous times, so I don’t see how that would affect it. So I’d like to know what the process is for the calibration cycle. Is the print head supposed to touch the buildplate? Is there a sensor that may not be working properly?

Is there a way to manually level the buildplate?

Should I open a ticket with support?

Any help is appreciated.

It seems likely that A.) the hotend isnt fully inserted into the 3dp module or B.) the prox sensor has shifted from its proper position

there is a sensor on it, its the little black rectangle that sticks out under the print head.

if you put something metal right up to it, it show glow red.

Sorry for not replying sooner.

You were right. The prox sensor was shifted. Resetting the screw corrected the issue.


This has happened to me as well, and it freaked me out. The hotend ground a huge groove in the print sheet.

Just in case someone else makes the same mistake I did, I’ll post what my problem was. It was the tightening screw that locks the shaft of the hotend in place. I totally missed it (it’s behind the door on the front of the print head unit, little black tightening screw…). Without that screw being tightened, the hotend nozzle would drop a couple of mm as it heated up.

It would be really nice if Snapmaker put an updated video on changing the hotend for the 2.0 model.