woah, i feel so stupid not thinking of that
what 3m tape would you recommend?
Missed this entire thread somehow, but this just cracked me up:
How did you know?!? 
@scyto: I’d probably just use contact cement. if it doesn’t hold, time to break out the construction adhesive.
scyto goes to google what that means 
(never used any of that)
I just used some random double sided tape I had lying around. If you’re doing it right, the laser bed should be experiencing 0 stress, so the only thing that really matters is how flat it stays (read: thinner is better). As long as it sticks, it’s probably good enough.
That being said, I’ll be reconsidering this solution when I get the 10W laser. The 3dp bed is nice and thick, but I’d be worried about the laser eventually making its way through the holes in the laser plates after enough passes.
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I often see double-sided tape presented as a solution (in 3d printing, woodwork, metalwork, you name it), but I have never had good results with it. Gimme a good ol’ fashioned toxic adhesive any day 
Fully agree. Continuously have perfect results when using magigoo. Without it very mixed and offer bad outcomes.
Wil not do any print anymore without it!
we’re talking about taping the laser bed down to a print sheet, I don’t think magigoo does the same thing
Oh right, this is 3d printing, so… weave some kapton tape (horizontal upside down, vertical upside up) and you can use that to secure it down 
Kapton is entirely safe to use and is not known to cause any cancers, or even shortness of breath during excessively aerobic application.
How can it possibly be adhesive enough? 
OMG! I Do feel stupid also! How the hell I did not put my brain on that perspective! LOL!!!
Will do that! I have one that got ruined long time ago! I now have PEI on a piece of aluminium!
Thanks for your smart point of view!!!
By the way I am looking for a lineal module tech draw if somebody have it please share!!!
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Not sure its totally accurate, but I’ve used stefix’s drawing before: Technical Drawing A351 from stefix
oeps, sorry, completely miss placed remark here. no Less valid though
coincidentally i happen to have my first ever kapton tape arriving today, is it stick enough?
also as the build plates flex how do i stop gaps appearing between the black bars?
Minutes later I found it and start cropping some pieces I need, will do some test prints and see if holes are on the correct place!
Just an update!
Get a PEI bed sheet and you will not have more problems… just make sure your bed is aligned and have no level problems as same as your SM2 is on a plain surface… PEI sheet solve lot of problems on regards adhesion! look for them at Aliexpress they are for less than 20 bucks (without the aluminum sheet), unfortunately before I purchase mine they raise the price and could cost up to 60 bucks. I just purchase 2 PEI to get mines changed as I cut it accidentally with a knife…
Then as it is just 2mm height attach the laser bed as per our friend @nivekmai said on his post! Some PEI that are purchases with the aluminum comes with a magnetic layer with 3M adhesive, you can use that layer to attach your laser bed and wallaaaa!!!
These guys are expensive but they have the exact size, just need to chat them (first one I purchased): ENERGETIC Custom 128x128mm Removal Spring Steel Sheet applied PEI Build Surface+ Magnetic Sticker for Snapmaker 3D Printer Bed|3D Printer Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress
This one have PEI at lower cost and great quality (I purchase this one recently): 3D Printer Parts Cold PEI Frosted 3D Print Build Surface Polyetherimide Cold PEI Sheet 0.3mm Thickness For CR10 Ender 3|3D Printer Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress
The 2nd have some aluminum sheets that might work.
and you should know the bed sheet size, so you match the bed.
Check this out:
A150: 174 × 174 × 1.5 mm /
6.85 × 6.85 × 0.06 "
A250: 244 × 264 × 1.5 mm /
9.60 × 10.39 × 0.06 "
A350: 334 × 364 × 1.5 mm /
13.15 × 14.33 × 0.06 "
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Unfortunately no longer released