Howdy - new A250 Owner. Suggest Start-up Tasks?

Just got my A250 + Enclosure Monday, finally finished assembly last night. Took a chance and assembled the enclosure right around the machine because of my desk space, which means I didn’t even try powering it on until after moving touchscreen and plugging in enclosure and all. Started with 3D Print module.

Ran thru the ‘startup’ procedure calibration and filament load with trepidation, having read about auto-calibration crunching nozzles into the bed, but turns out that never really gets into ‘print’ position. Immediatley updated FW to 1.10 and shut off for the night, plan to try first use and prints this weekend.

Suggestions for first steps after firmware update?

  1. Test enclosure lights and fan thru the touchscreen - DONE. (BTW, are the lights dimabble at all, holy blindness, Batman!)
  2. Calibrate extruder? (Can I do this thru Luban with USB connection? I have a link for a tutorial for the commands and running a 100mm extrusion test.)
  3. Luban installed on PC (3.8.0).
  4. Select a better bed calibration (4x4 or 5x5 recommended?)
  5. Benchy or some other first print test.
  6. Prints to assist printing: Not 100% happy with the way the filament routes ‘past’ the extruder cable. So maybe a guide for that. Cabling pressing the side folding panel ditto might benefit from some guidance/tidying, make sure nothing fouls the X cable. Due to my desk I need to come up with a different low-profile exhaust hose and right-angle outlet. Also figured out already I want to print some small ‘grabbers’ for the non-tracked hinge of the door, to assist getting it to start buckling when opening.
  7. Anyone know what sort of amps this thing draws when heating bed and extruder and printing? I plan to build my own new patch cable into the PSU with a 120VAC current monitor inline, but in the meantime concerned about having both it and my computer (1200W PSU) running simultaneously on a typical US 15A breaker. If not actively printing I’m sure it’s fine.


yes here is a link to a thread that covers this: Extruder Calibration a must - #22 by Atom

on the PSU it says input amps is about 4, i would assume a max 5A draw at 120VAC to be safe. that said you should be fine as i have ran my PC (1400W PSU), ender 3, SM2 A350, and other various smaller electronics at the same time on a 15A circuit and have yet to throw a breaker. (not that i would recommend having that much on the same circuit)

i would test with the kickstarter test, i find it to be good and it is what all3dp uses to test all the printers they review. it can be found here:

i would remove the hot end and check for debree (has been a problem for some) and while it is out i would apply some thermal paste to the thermister or the thermister hole for better temp control.

additionaly i would adjust the retraction down (most people on here recommend 1mm) i have found 2mm works well for me. but i have not adjusted my K value yet.

I would also adjust your K value as well if you have time. here is some info on how to do that:

i use 4x4 and find it works well enough for me, but that will depend on how flat your build surface is.

if you are familiar with other 3d printing software (cura, simplify3d, etc.) i would recommend using them as the Luban slicer is just about worthless. in fact Luban is probably the worst part about the whole printer (but that may change with time)

good luck, happy making, and let us know if you run into problems (or not :slight_smile: )


Wow. GREAT checklist for my weekend, thanks!!

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Also you may want to consider buying a good pair of laser safety glasses, the enclosure has not been safty tested yet, and the glasses that come with the unit are not enough protection (OD of 1.19 when 3.2 Is minimum recommended for a 1600mw laser) I don’t like taking risks when it comes to my eyesight :smile:

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Agreed re: laser safety. Worse yet, the unit is just a little too wide (enclosure) for my desk, so there’s a gap along one edge looking ‘up’ below the side panel. I’ll need to seal that off too before I try lasering. I’ve also noticed the gaps around the touchscreen, not bueno. Definitely need a rubber seal or something around that too.

So far I’ve calibrated extruder. Ran a quick basic test print for stick (big 2 layer flat rectangle), decided I need to heat up bed and nozzle to about 55/85 respectively before running the bed calibration, as the first try just didn’t have any ‘squish’ to the lines despite a cold bed calibration just before. Think I’m going to design my own filament guide (yes, seen a couple acceptable looking alternatives on Thingiverse but heck, that’s the fun of this stuff).

If your looking for useful prints and more information, check out this Thread by @Tone. He has done a great job compiling a lot of useful links so thank you Tone. Also I am sure people will find some good ways to modify the enclosure to fix it’s problems. Just give it some time (but protect your eyes in the meantime :slight_smile: )


Thanks again. FYI, made a thing today. If I can trust this looks like peak current draw during printing (bed and extruder heating) is about 2.7A.

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Good info, keep in mind that could change a little, it would be better described as the typical current draw while heating. The max is determined by the power supply. But I would love to know what the average current draw is for each function (printing, laser, cnc). so keep making and keep sharing!