Since you didn’t say what commands you ran that got you there I’m going to have to assume.
Sounds like you’re in G90 absolute positioning mode and you had previously extruded to or beyond E100. Issuing a G1 E100 will do nothing, or reverse, in that circumstance.
The relevant part of the documentation I sent above: [E<pos>] An absolute or relative coordinate on the E (extruder) axis (in current units). The E axis describes the position of the filament in terms of input to the extruder feeder.
brilliant! this is good stuff, so in other words the E “axis” is trying to move to position 100 instead of moving out from its current position 100 mm, because it thinks your telling it a position instead of assigning it to move forward 100
so you have 2 choices, make it 200 or change to g91 first, which the ladder is probably the easier option to keep track of.
@brent113 Apologies, it would have been helpful to include those commands . I did follow the guide linked, issuing the commands in the following order. Only these commands were issued.
Connect vis USB after installing the firmware on MacOS (Big Sur)
Kick off heating the nozzle to 225 to match extrusion temp for the current filament
Issue M503 to check configuration settings and confirm the current value
With the filament loaded, measure 100mm from the top and mark it
Issue G1 E100 F300 and measure from the top to the marked line (12mm in this case)
100/(100-12) = 1.136, 212.21 * 1.136 = 241.15
Issued M92 E241.15 followed by M500 to save
Once saved, the G1 E100 F300 resulted in kicking the filament out instead of feeding it as it did before.
Edit
The extruder is in the top left most corner of the machine.
It moved backwards rather than staying stationary because you found an edge case in the firmware. Under the hood it tracks location in steps from the origin, not in mm or inches. By changing the number of steps/mm in absolute mode the firmware suddenly thought it was at a different length from the origin, so reissuing E100 in absolute mode went backwards. It would’ve extruded much less than -100mm though, only -12mm, due to the difference between 212 and 241 steps/mm
There are a lot of variables in the time it takes to print. There’s obviously the speed of the linear modules, but also how many/thick each layer is, and how dense the infill.
Doubling the layer thickness right off the bat will ~halve your print time. You’ll be able to see the layers better, but since you’re sanding the finished product anyway, maybe that doesn’t matter. On my v1, I print with a 0.05mm layer height for finely detailed work, and up to 0.4mm for prototyping or things that surface finish doesn’t matter. I’d try a single print with a 0.2mm and 0.4mm layer height, and see if you’re happy with those. Although I’ve found that some of my calibrations (particularly first layer adhesion tweaks) need to be adjusted when I switch between the two extremes.
You can also crank up the Speed section. I’m using Luban’s “Fast Print” settings when I print at 0.4mm. I do notice some gaps near the z seam and after travel w/ retraction. I need to spend some time dialing in my print temperature (I still haven’t gotten around to printing the temperature tower). Once I dial in a good printing temperature, I should be able to reduce the retraction distance, which should help eliminate the gap after travel.
Lastly, your infill setting of 100% is going to add a lot of print time. Do you really need a solid object, or would an object w/ 90% of the compression strength be just fine? Cura has a lot of different infill options that have different strength in different directions. If you’re purely concerned about compression on the Z axis, and don’t care much about the radial axis, the stock infill should give you a large percentage of the Z axis compression strength for a fraction of the print time. Although I do also get some gaps in my infill when I’m printing with a 70mm/s infill speed, similar to the retraction gaps I mentioned. If you do care about Z axis and radial axis, some of the other settings like Cubic or Gyroid might be interesting. They vary the pattern over the Z axis, so you’ll want to play with the layer slider to get an idea of what the full 3D pattern looks like.
If you do reduce the infill, you might run into issues with sanding the outside. I see you increased the wall thickness from the default 0.8mm to 1.2mm. Depending how much material you sand off, you might need to increase that more.
. I did follow the guide linked, issuing the commands in the following order. Only these commands were issued.
