I am attempting to print out an RC airplane with my new S2. I can’t get the layers to stick together well. I even tried the test vase file that came with the printer. The parts are so delicate that any sleight squeeze and the layers break apart. I have tried several materials and setting and have little to no success. I am using Simplify3D.
Sounds like it could be underextrusion, search around here for e steps calibration, and consider doing a full calibration like I detailed here, Snapmaker 2.0 Initial Calibration Settings / Experiences, or like several other people have written up.
The filament is also suspect, never hurts to do a cold pull and try new filament.
Thanks Brent but I did adjust the extrusion multiplier as much as 107% I measured the filament and it averaged about 171. Would you still think there is an under-extrusion with those settings?
Ok cool. I think the next steps would be post some pictures as I’m sure you can tell there’s about 50 knobs that can be tweaked, and there’s not much else to go on right now beyond guessing. Also post your FFF Factory file from S3d
You’re welcome to give my s3d profile a shot. I don’t really think it’ll fix your issue, I think it’s a machine parameter thing, but you never know.
Above I actually meant to say factory file, as that will include the model and settings and everything. Got FFF and Factory files mixed up.
You might try printing the linear advance test pattern - I had quite a lot of linear advance issues, that one is fast to do and would give good info if it’s way off.
Thank you Brent, I did download the Factory file for PLA. Right now I am testing to see how PETG works (I basicaly used your PLA settings and just changed the nozzle and bed temps) just to see what happens. I love your scripts that heat up both the nozzle and bed at the same time. It cut warm up time way down!
Actually, here is one of the files I am trying to print. According to the instructions, it is supposed to have 0 top/bottom layers, 1 outer layer, .20 layer height, 0 infill, no support, nozzle temp 215-230.
I wasn’t thinking a raft would help here. Usually the models are barely stuck the raft and are done to make removal easier or to compensate for a defect in the bed print surface. I’d be interested in hearing if the first 20mm or so look better if it’s printed with just a brim.
I was having issues with bed adhesion being too good so I figured a raft would work better. I never tried a brim but I guess that would work as well. I will try a brim on the next piece. Might work better for bed adhesion. Right now the machine is doing a piece in PETG and it seems ( but its not done yet) that the layers are sticking better.
That’s a bit rare, in that case I agree. If it’s not falling over it’s not a problem, no need to change. A poorly built raft could introduce some z height issues, but those would dissipate as the model gets taller and wouldn’t adequately explain the issues you were describing, so no worries there.
You’ll know if you’re printing too fast if it falls over from the height. One downside of the movable Y platform, it shakes the model, and tall thin models can have issues with high acceleration. I actually decreased the standard acceleration from 1000 to 750 because I was getting ringing in the Y axis.
I have to use a raft in all normal printing or I cannot get the parts off the bed. It sticks WAY too well. However, these thin wall or single layer walls are a completely different animal. A brim might be better.