I purchased the Dual Extruder on Black Friday (2023) and was excited to get it added to my A350. Unfortunately, due to life I am just now getting around to getting this printhead set up. As you can see from the pic, I cannot get the extruder to do multiple colors. Of the 30 attempts in the last several days, this one is the best one that I have been able to produce. I have Luban dialed in pretty good and am able to print pretty decent quality parts with either the left or the right extruder. (The benchy on the left was printed with the left extruder.)
I do like the automated calibration wizards. However, I will say, that the X/Y calibration does not allow for me to setup differing temps before launching. I had to pre-heat, and then change the temps during the X/Y calibration just to be able to get it to work with the PETG filament.
My gut tells me that Iām just not going to be able to do multi-color with this extruder. I donāt know if itās because I am using PETG, or if as the rest of the internet says ā āthis thing just doesnāt work.ā I donāt know. Iām going to continue running the extruders individually, but I am very disappointed in this product. It was way too expensive for it to be such a dud.
Prime tower is default with Luban.
Retraction is set to 1.5mm at 50mm/s.
Unfortunately, with each of the multi colored attempts, the prime tower winds up getting pulled off its brim and then bashed against the part. At that point, the print becomes a spaghetti mess.
Question for you Hauke.
From several of the posts Iāve read that you are in, there has been mention of performing calibration on each extruder head individually. Is that something you have done, and if so - how would you do it? The touchscreenās calibration has very little manipulation of the right extruder, and Luban doesnāt give you many configuration settings to adjust; so my assumption has been that the various touchscreen wizards are all I can do.
It depends on what you mean with calibration. E-Steps were for me perfectly spot on on factory values, no need to adjust. What I usually refer to is Z-Offset. I have the problem that when I run the Auto-Z-Calibration, the nozzle at start of print ends up too high by 0.3-0.4 mm, a problem others share. My current working hypothesis is that the flex I observe in the X-axis when the head presses down for auto-calib introduces the error. Iāll verify this as soon as I have the bracing kit.
To compensate for the error, I print a relatively large skirt, and on the fly use the touchscreen controls to adjust the Z-Offset for each nozzle - the touchscreen has dedicated screens for that, works good enough. I always print from the touchscreen, I do not print from Luban, so I cannot tell how you adjust Z in Luban on the fly, sorry.
Regarding your prime tower getting knocked over: It might be an indication for printing a tad too high or your print bed needing cleaning - I use lukewarm water and dish washing soap for cleaning, gives best results.
Finally, I use Cura as Slicer, not sure if they do the prime tower differently - I suppose not, since Luban is based on Cura. As of now, my prime tower always stuck good enough.
That sounds reasonable - unless you observe strong oozing - in that case Iād retract more, and ignore any warnings the printer might give. For PVA for example I ended up with 6 mm of retraction.
this thing can work. for my a350 i found that bed leveling at the target temperature is far more important than calibrating the extruders for a specific material. ive done x/yās with various materials and agree the temp setting issue does exist. however, if the bed is at target temp for the material you intend to use during leveling. you can use pla if you wish for the x/y calibration. the x/y calibration itself doesnāt seem to be dependent on materials.
i found as @Hauke suggested that a little vertical error is a real problem for first layers and bed adhesion. also, small changes in bed temp can cause your bed to be āunleveledā and let your parts float above the bed. so i would try bed leveling at target build temp. x/y cal with pla.
CLEAN THE BED!
finally, ive tried MANY type of build plates hunting for that perfect answer. PEI etc. for me, MatterHackers LayerLock Garolite has been exceptional for pla. petg abs asa and nylonās. i donāt need sprays or glue sticks.
i took an old snapmaker build plate that has seen to many builds and stuck one of these on it. works like a charm.
oopsā¦the other thing my dual has been āupgradedā with the new kit. door etc
I havenāt dual printed in a little while but when I did it worked great, the only complaint I have is you can program a change filament on the right extruder but not the left. Also I was using Cura then as my slicer. I am now using Prusa need to do a dual print to see how it comes out. I have been super happy with my Prusa prints much better than I was getting with Cura or the luban slicers
Which Matterhackers plate did you buy for the snappy A350? None of them seem to be the correct measurements.
I recently bought a fulament textured PEI plateā¦ itās amazing. No glue or additives required. Prints pop right now. Downside was cost; it was like 80 bucks on Amazon.
13.07x13.39. ive liked pei plates but i am hard on them, and seem to scratch off the pei coating too easily. all my pei plates have a āspaceā now where the coating is gone
Looks real nice. Iām using a fulament textured pei plate currently. Cost an arm and a legā¦ but it works pretty darn well. Iāve printed some tall skinny objects and no failures.
