I am trying to understand gcode (laser, luban). I guess it seems that marlin is used here. I now but the command M2000 nowhere find and therefore do not know what it does exactly.
Also you can type in the M2000 L23 P1 into the forum search and you will find other references of others asking the same or very similar questions related to this Here for Example
that is very interesting. I have now been able to learn a few things. Itās a pity that Snapmaker offers so little clean support. Am I in danger of making a mistake if I use Lightburn?
There are many people using Lightburn for Lasering. There are quite a few posts in the forum. I recall seeing several āgetting started with lightburnā posts.
Keep in mind, the source code is for the 2.0, not the Artisan. They havenāt uploaded the source for the Artisan as of yet, but if I recall (canāt remember where the post was) they were going to begin updating the gcode reference again soon. Weāll see.
As far as activating the second diode in the 10W, Iāve had no problems with the 10W on my 2.0 and have used Lightburn exclusively. I wonder if they set it up to turn off one laser if under 50% or something, which wouldnāt make sense as that would create an uneven wear between the diodes.
EDIT: Generated the same file with 100% power and 1% power, no difference. Also, swapped Luban to the 1.6W aaaandā¦ the line is still present. Digging a little further; itās apparently for the 40W only. Swapping the machine settings to the 40W enables this option;
Which changes the line to M2000 L23 P0 at the beginning, then P1 again at the end. Iām more wondering what the M2003 and M2004 are. Iām going to do a few more tests real fast.
EDIT2: Did a quick test and it seems to not do anything, at least on a 2.0 with 10W. Quickly did up a test using grayscale (which would show the power reduction quite obviously) 0-100% power. One has P1 set, the other has P0 set, so one should be half the power of the other (one diode vs both) andā¦?
(sorry for running into a previous test under it, also I have the interval wide as not to overburn and ruin the test)
Exactly the same. So it seems it likely ONLY works with the 40W. My guess is the diodes in the 10W are in series together, meaning if one is on, the other is on. Whereas the 40W likely has 4 diodes in series on one board, and the other 4 on a separate board so it can turn half of them off. This will give you a tighter spot (similar to the 20W I assume) but again, it also puts more wear on the set of 4 that are always used, despite the setting.