@Franky how about this one it is titanium but the smooth part is about 7mm shorter BIQU BX All-metal Throat Stainless steel & Titanium alloy Heat break 3 – Biqu Equipment do you think that would be an issue?
I assembled one while swapping nozzles on a new hot end, just because I had all the tools out already. My understanding is the flange on the throat is where the setscrew in the aluminum heatbreak registers, to prevent the hot end from creeping out during printing due to the pressure of the filament extrusion.
My concern would be whether the hot end can extend far enough into the heatbreak, while the keeping the flange withing the rather limited range of adjustment for the proximity sensor. Haven’t tried it; maybe next time I have the print head off I’ll see if this is an actual problem. Worst case, chuck the throat in the lathe and knock the flange back a bit.
Hi @SapphireMoose ,
Just pointed to my next step. First of all, the all-metal mod with steel heatbreak is a challenging one:
- You have to ensure you use also a copper plated nozzle to ensure the heat goes easier to the nozzle than to the Heatbreak.
- You have to use thermal grease in the Heatbreak only in the heatsink part.
- Just to add a bit more, also thermal grease on the nozzle.
- You also have to ensure the hotend cooling fan is doing it’s best: I put one a bit more powerful and add a bit of sealing tape to the internal duct to ensure minimal loses
- And finally, as @brent113 says, it’s for higher temperatures only, PLA has a glass temp of 60 and PETG of 80 … So not a good Idea use it with PLA.
Now , the Titanium Heatbreak might change that. I already saw it and order it
As you can see is slightly shorter , but that can easily be fixed added a small bit of PTFE on the top. The Notch is not a bit deal mechanically, and can be used to even better fix the groove screw. For the rest of the flat notch, I am going to add a bit extra of Thermal grease.
My aim is make a functional test next week 
I will keep you posted
1 Like
@Franky thanks for the update.
Did you go with the slice engineering heatbreak or the BIQU one? Looking at all the dimensions it looks like slice engineering one would be about 12mm shorter then the snapmaker original and the BIQU would be about 7mm shorter.
I wonder if you could use slice engineering MK8 heatbreak and just fill the upper thread with thermal paste to compensate for the thread instead of the smooth bore
if you were able too then the length would be similar to the original heat break
I used the BIQU one. The MK8 from Slice Engineering , as it has the tread will have a further worse contact with the heatsink, even with Thermal grease. Thermal grease is aimed to fill the microscopic irregularities between two flat surfaces to improve thermal transfer. But if that layer really increases, the heat transfer also get worse. The BIQU one seems a better start with less effort 
1 Like
Not only that but with a coarser surface like that of threads, it would require a great deal of pressure to actually get inside those microscopic gaps to even do anything, which wouldn’t be effective hardly at all.
@Franky I have bought the BIQU heat break as well and intend to use it with M6 Tungsten Carbide M6 Nozzle | Canada - SPOOL3D Do you think you really need to increase the length of the heatbreak with PTFE at the top?
What do you think would happen if it didnt?
If you don’t put a bit of PTFE tube 2 things might happen:
- It can be more challenging to load filament as we have a gap without guidance
- That gap also can create a hot chamber , as do not have any insulation from heatsink, and soften the filament, increasing the possibility of jamming and making more difficult retractions
The cost does not worth the risk
The tungsten carbide is a very good choice, BTW 
Hi there,
This weekend I’ve been able to test the All-Metal Hotend with the BiQU Titanium heartbreak, and it worked out wonderfully. I´ve made some test prints using the default Cura profile from John Aldred, PLA fast settings and printed the same file with both hotends (standard and All-Metal), just re-doing the auto-levelling. The print module is the original standard one, no modifications (yet )
The results are as follows:
OVERALL PRINT - STANDARD HOTEND
OVERALL PRINT - ALL-METAL TITANIUM
Here you have some close-ups of the test prints:
The process has been very straightforward:
-
You need the parts: All-Metal BIQU Heatbreak, Titanium Version, the nozzle you want to use ( in may case the Trianglelab T-V6 Plated Copper Nozzle , 7 mm of teflon tube ( 1.75mm inner diameter) and thermal pasts ( in my case Thermal Grizzly Kyonaut, that holds until 350 degrees)
-
Set the heartbreak on the standard Snapmaker Heated block until it’s aligned with the lower thread, trying to make the flat part set in the front:
-
Put a bit of thermal paste in the nozzle and insert it in the heat block until gets tight:
-
Now remove the actual hotend printer, and get ready to put the new one. For that, add some thermal paste to the top of the heartbreak:
-
Now insert a small piece of filament inside the heartbreak to help guiding the PTFE tube into the printing head:
And it’s done:
I’ll keep testing and use as my new default printhead.
Enjoy !
3 Likes
@Franky thermal grizzly has always been my favorite thermal compound. That stuffs good! Albeit pricey.
Looks good, but what keeps that small piece of ptfe tube aligned with the top of the heatbreak? From what I can see, the H2 heatbreaks don’t have any pocket on the top to align the ptfe like some of the V6 heatbreaks I’ve used. Or has shifting of that ptfe tube just been a non-issue for you so far?
@Franky Have you tried printing high-temperature materials with your modified hotend yet? If so, are you getting heat creep/filament jams? Thanks!
You could put that PTFE tube inside a 6mm OD (4mm ID) PTFE tube, like those used for 3.0 mm filament. That way, it’d keep it in line and flush.
Any update on how your liking the Biqu heatbreak? I just pulled the trigger on it.
Hi,
Shipping to the US on the one you have linked is January 25th. I need something WAY sooner than that. I found this Amazon.com: BALITENSEN MK8 Extruder Thermal Barrier Heatbreak - M6x30mm All-Metal 1.75mm Throat Compatible with CTC Wanhao Makerbot 3D Printer (5 Pack) : Industrial & Scientific
Should be here Tuesday. I’ll let you know how it works.
Thanks.
John
1 Like
Hi, I’m curious about how these Balitensen heat break worked for you. Happy with the result?
Cheers,
Per
I have them and runs fine, approx 0.7/0.8mm longer than stock but did not cause an issue for me
1 Like
Thanks! I’ll go ahead and order some. 
Sorry. missed your question. They work great. Make sure you get some TIM to coat them with. I use Kryonaut because that’s what I have in the drawer, but any should work.
Thanks! Ordered. Will match them with my all-filament compatible Nozzle X.