I believe that he had made some updates to it, which may have been in his final collection. If he shared them at all yet. If the link is gone I am quite bummed as I wanted to see what he did with it.
I had to do a bit of fiddling to make it work, but it was worth it.
@stewl I forgot to ask, what glue did you use to attach the thermal pad to the back of the bed?
No you dont need to, it comes with a sticky site and a tacky side, the sticky side goes on the glass. itās designed to stick on to heatsinks and make very good contact with electrical components but still peel off them.
Cool gotcha. I always use paste since it cools better Iāve never used a thermal pad so I had no idea. We use them in our servers but Iām in processor architecture design so I donāt get to go exploring in the mainframe.
@stewl out of curiosity what band ordering is the resistor in the picture of the harness you posted? Itās too blurry to tell but is that a yellow third? Whatās the wattage?
To be honest I dont know they are just the physically smallest ones I had in my box. The actual value is not at all critical and from memory the ones I actually used were slightly different from those I recommended. The tolerance absolutely doesnāt matter nor does the wattage. Current across both is a few ma at 3.3v. They are just being used as a pull up and a current limiter thats probably not required but good practice.
Yeah. I literally just picked some out of one of my boxes. I was only curious because of the third band. Iāve rarely seen a 5 band with a yellow third so it piqued my curiosity.
The IR sensor just arrived today, now Iām only waiting on an extra print head to arrive from Snapmaker so I can start the upgrade. I wanted to have 2, one with the oem probe and one with the IR. The one with oem probe as a backup in case I get a clog or something.
As far as resistors for 3.3v, Iām sure youāre aware of the long hot debate about it. Like you I opt to be better safe than sorry. Just because ohms law is always true doesnāt mean everything else is 
Had a better photo and it is a bit unusual. Brown, black, Yellow, Orange Brown. 102 x 1k ohm 1% from the E96 series. I just picked it out of the ā10 boxā and checked it with a meter. No idea where I got it from but it could have been there for over 40 years, back when most stuff was analog and exact resistor values were important. 
Haha yeah. I got interested in electronics when I was 5, my dad came home to all 3 of his computers that he built to learn networking all dismantled by a 5 year old. Pretty much grew up with my head buried into electronics. And I only recall seeing a yellow third band once before, it piqued my interest both then and now.
So you never did analog! Its a black art not a science and those that understand radio and analog amplifiers have my admiration. Built my first computer in 1980 from a bag of bits. Been playing with this stuff ever since,
Nice! Iāve wanted to delve into analog. The first computers I built were the ones I tore apart. After the yelling my dad and I put em back together, I then built my own at the age of 8. Parents got the parts for my birthday and an ESD system and I went to town. Took a while but done on my own. Back then we had to ground motherboards through a ring eyelet to a stand-off and a PSU mounting screw. Under certain conditions you still should but largely unnecessary now days.
Just tried to find that old 486, itās in the shed, saw the mouse nest and turned right back. Will be back with unnecessarily large flamethrower later mice!
Back to topic. I already know what Iām going to be doing, but Iāve also seen in the Facebook official owners group that some have actually taken a glass bed place it on the bed with the Snapmaker bed sticker on top, started auto leveling and it worked, then for the final manual z offset they flipped it over with the sticker now underneath and glass on top and set the offset that way. But I donāt see how that would even be very efficient for heat transfer, having to go through the sticker before reaching the glass. Then theres the fact that clips would still need to be used.
Hey! Any luck with posting the files.
The mods you made to the original all sound great. I know many of us are looking forward to seeing them.
Thanks!
Yep, wrote it all up and posted it at the beginning of last month and itās still working extremely well., There is a link further up this thread dated 5th May and some more info and answers in the responses that follow.
Let me know if you need any more information.
Works amazingly well. @stewl did a great write up of it.
I cant get the fifix to work absolutely no hole is fitting with want print parameters did yall printed it?
After starting to use the glass-bed (2 months ago), I only had to level once with FiFix. As I didnāt use the Laser or CNC since then, there was no need for leveling. Yesterday I did take off the 3D-head and swapped for the CNC. So time to inspect the FiFix.
It seemed that the little foot did warp a lot upwards. In this state it will not work anymore.
So back to the drawing tableā¦ I think the foot is too close to the heated bed, and due to the heat, it started warping, it is just printed PLA of course. Meaning the spring + foot need to get a higher locking position. And probably the foot itself needs to become a bit thicker to make it stronger.
Before I fitted the IR sensor and used FiFix, I just cut up a piece of tin can and used that for the foot. Solves the heat warping problem.
U got the link to your ir sensor mod, i think its time to look at ordering the parts.
Itās all here way up this thread. Let me know if anything is unclear.
Any chance of posting your modified files to test out? Iām very interested in the changes you made.