Sorry I don’t understand what files you want. All the instructions are in google docs per the instructions referred to above.
I mounted the CNC head on the mount offset to the right one hole. then created a machining drawing
in F360. Using a 1/4" flat 2 flute endmill I machined all of the mounting points of the aluminum frame 0.05mm at a pass. it took 7 passes to get them all. The rear left corner was still about 0.07mm low so I added a paper sticker. The PEI plate is now flat within .02mm as measured with a feeler gauge.
I am new to this, this might be a stupid question to ask.
Is the Silicone Thermal Pad will shrink / expand (even a bit) when we heat the bed ?
@irawans No. Silicone is extremely heat resistant, the temps that the bed can do isn’t near enough to affect silicone very much at all. It will actually soften and become a tiny bit gooey and holds the glass to the heated bed. If it were pure silicone it wouldn’t even get gooey.
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Thanks so much for the confirmation.
When it becomes gooey and the glass bed on top of it, does it mean the bed will move down toward the heated bed. Hence the distance between the glass bed and nozzle will be further ?
@irawans it would be so minute that it wouldn’t make a difference. The difference is so small. This is assuming it was put on correctly with no air bubbles.
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@Thick8 That sounds great.
Out of interest, when you put the heated bed on and the print surface and heat it up to 70c how level is the print surface from a bed level? Can you post a Bed visualiser pic if you use OctoPrint or a M420V map of the probe points.
My print bed is 0.57mm out across the diagonal of the frame. I used to spend ages shimming the frame with paper to within a thou but have given that up and rely on glass and a leveling routine that now works but a once only skim is something that sounds worthwhile doing. Any chance you could share your F360 file? I presume you set the origin to the highest point and keep running it until you run out of aluminium. Looks like I would need 11 passes if the frame is as (un)level as the print surface.
I specified the thermal sheet when I first did the glass thing but when I moved to the IR sensor I removed it so I could paint the back of the glass black. I have been printing just as well with the glass resting on the heated bed without the thermal sheet, held on with some small pieces of blue tape as I found clamps bend the glass.
@Artezio do you have a digital thermometer? It would be interesting to see if you get more even heat across the bed than I do.
After heating to 65c and leaving for 15 minutes, this is what I get from a 3x3 grid, same orientation as M420V, edge points in about 40mm.
60.8 62.0 58.0
59.3 63.5 52.9
54.4 57.2 53.1
Might have to have another go with the thermal sheet, thats not very even! Good job I dont print much ABS.
@stewl I do have a DigitaI thermometer, more precisely I have a thermal IR gun. I’ll take readings and post a write up.
I am eagerly awaiting your Thingiverse upload. And thank you for the instructions and part list.
I ordered a sensor. The site said matterhackers sold that brand but didnt have the part unforutnately.
Is there some kinda adaptor u made ?
Is Thingiverse worth it? All the documents are available from the link. The parts you need to print are in the STL folder. You have a choice of low or high fan duct. I am using the low one as it gives a bit more clearance and seems to provide as good cooling as the higher one and better than the original part.
Never put anything on Thingiverse, I will have a look.
@stewl I avoid posting on thingiverse lately. There’s been instances of posts just disappearing and lost files in the database, sometimes they randomly pop back up somehow, if you’re lucky. It’s been bad ever since MakerBot’s resurrection. They’ve really let the management of thingiverse slip. I contacted them a couple weeks ago about it and I was told they don’t plan on improving it much and admitted it’s not their focus to maintain it. I got no response from the thingiverse team, I had to email makerbots team on their main website.
I think MyMiniFactory would be a better option atm.
Aghh just spent all morning fighting Thingiverse. It’s here for better or worse. I was quite happy when this community could find the link, this is not a straightforward mod and I hope people in the wider community dont try it and mess up their machine.
Lets see how it goes and I can always remove. I will keep the stuff in Google docs up to date.
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@stewl I let people know on the FB group about it but caution them heavily that proficient soldering, wiring, and understanding of electrical diagrams are required. If you put in big bold letters the cautionary warnings before the instructions start and that you are not responsible for them screwing up, then that’s really all you can do.
I bought a second head to do it in case I messed up because of the current situation with my left arm, and I’m a professional in this field, even us pros mess up sometimes.
Thanks for doing that. Sorted out a bit of Thingiverse formatting to emphasise the disclaimer.
Ah that is what I was looking for. Thanks!
So, I can’t just use the exising prox sensor’s wiring and transfer it to this guy?
I thought the prox had a 3 conductor plug for it terminating on the internal pcb
Edit: Oh, i See this document u made, that was not something i found originally. OK i guess ineed some more stuff then.
Yep it’s a bit tricky without the document!
The existing sensor uses 24v power and pulls down the 3.3v logic line on trigger. The IR one uses 3.3v power, needs it’s logic line to be pulled up to 3.3v to start in the right mode and goes high when triggered. This could be sorted by a small circuit board but as we need a new cable anyway, space is tight and we are working inside a metal box alongside metal parts I decided to put the necessary components into a cable thats also easy to insulate.
You dont have to use the same components I used, any equivalent will do.
@stewl honestly I think you did it the most practical way. I would’ve come to the same conclusion just because of the fact that the casing is metal. I once blew a transistor off a motherboard because I didn’t realize at some point a thumb screw somehow got lodged between the motherboard and the mounting panel. I switched out a fan, doing so I had to put the tower on its side as it’s a super tower, and when I put it back upright it moved into a position that caused an arc when I powered it on and bye bye transistor. Lots of F bombs immediately followed. The thumbscrew wasn’t an external one, it had internal ones for various reasons, I thought I had removed them all but apparently not! If anyone wants to know what a 22 LR cartridge sounds like, blow a transistor it’s pretty damn close.
Update: I’ll be getting around to reading the temps with my thermal laser reader with the silicone on the bottom of the glass hopefully sometime this week. Been super busy.