just updated my Snapmaker to 1.13.2., because after a looong pause I plan to print something in the next days. I realised this line in the change notes:
“Add Heated-Leveling feature for 3D Printing Module.”
I had a very quick look around in the touch screen options, but I did not find a way to specify a temperature before bed calibration. So I assume that you set the temp from the control, and then do the calibration - am I right? No time yet to test myself, so I am curious if anyone tested this already, and how, and whith what results! In the past I always heated the bed before calibration to ~10° more than targeted, and calibrated while it cooled down, which was better than nothing, but far from perfect, so I have high hopes that this new feature will help!
turn on the feature on in settings > 3D print settingd and during the bed levelling wizard it will ask you want temp you want / start heating.
it does what it says on the can, did it make any difference to my print quality - tbh no. but then my issues with 1st layers are likely bigger than just bed levelling, lol.
Haven’t tried it yet, but the last time I leveled I heated the bed first and then started the auto level. Assuming this does the same thing (although if it keeps it at that temp, then it’s probably better).
depends on surface and how good the bed is (to be clear i agree for stock bed)
on stock plate i can print PLA at 45c initial layer with 35c and go quite large without warping
on energetic smooth PEI plate i had to up that to 60c for initial layer and keep temp at that to stop very very minor warping (less than 0.2mm in one corner that meant model was coming loose.
i also note on my bed that wether i use stock plate, energetic plate, glass plate or glass plate with energetic on top (all combinations i tried this weekend) that the temp as recorded by my FLIR One seems to be 8 to 10 lower - so when i heat my bed tro 70 it is basically at 60 no matter what build surface combination i am using.
Not making any conclusion other than yes 70 seems a bit high to me also.
Oh i have pages and pages plotted hot / cold mesh in excel and tbh the difference in plotted mesh is marginal on my unit - often within margin of error of measurement process using the white piece of paper.
i know i am a minority report and people think i am crazy, but i still believe there is something more fundamentally amiss with how first layers are extruded on my machine … others peoples machines, no idea, all i sense is our machines vary a lot…
When using this feature, you may want to heat the bed for 30-60 minutes before performing the actual level. The movement of the parts will take up to 60 minutes to settle. If you have an enclosure, make sure that the enclosure is in the state that it will be used when printing (i.e. open, closed, partially open, etc.). The majority of people make this mistake, thinking that they can just turn it on, calibrate it and move on, which is why they run into issues.
In the meantime, had my print done. Heated bed levelling worked for me. Ist was not a particularly large print, so I cannot say how well it works (i.e. if it has a definite advantage over the old method), but I like it being there. Like @CNC-Maker suggested, I pre-heated the bed for ~20 minutes to have everything settle in.
