How does the sensor work on the original print surface?
Not tried it but black is bad for infrared so I dont expect it to work. If you get set up with glass I dont think you will go back to the original print bed. Itās flat which the original never is, the sensor measures to the glass surface that you actually print on. The original sensor measures to the metal plate within the bed, not the surface you print on. I do most of my prints on clean glass they stick while printing and pop off when the bed cools. I could go on.
- just tried it and it actually senses the original print surface fine though I have not checked how accurate it is. I will be sticking to glass.
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Just curious to see if using the original is excluded. Yes it being black makes it difficult which is why I asked 
So that would mean a PEI sheet is not needed to auto level on glass. Now Iām curious as to how to get auto leveling to work on a glass plate with a thin high temp magnetic sheet on the bottom of the plate.
IR sensor detects the top of the glass, doesnāt care about whatās below it from a material perspective though you get best results if the bottom is a uniform black. Thats why I sprayed the back of the glass with high temp black paint. Now I can put it on anything. I did have it on silicone thermal pad to help with heat transfer but it didnāt seem to help much so the glass just lies on the heated bed now. The bed is so bent I dont clamp it down at all as that bent it. I just hold it in place with blue tape. It does mean that the lower corner doesnāt touch the heated bed so itās about 10c colder than the middle. I need to sort that by making the heated bed more level.
Awesome. Iām going to do the IR sensor upgrade you documented, will buy a separate print head to do it to. I have a borosilicate glass plate perfectly sized to the A350 on the way, going to put a high temp magnetic sheet on the bottom from mcmaster carr, itās pre applied with adhesive, only need to trim to fit and its a uniform black.
The mcmaster high temp sheet - not really sized well you need 2 pieces, but i found some on another site that was a bigger piece that could trim down
EZFlexĀ² - Magnetic Base (140C Max Temp) - TH3D Studio LLC
It may not make a huge difference but id rather have one solid magnet vs 2 pieced together for heat transfer purposes
plus u know, mcmaster costs a lot.
Not to shit on them, I buy from them constantly at work.
dont expect it to be enough to hold the glass down, it is not. there are glass clips out there, including some crappy one i made if u need a link.
Awesome, thanks. I was planning on having it as a solid base with no uncovered glass. And yeah, mcmaster costs a LOT. However, if its not enough to hold down the glass there kind of isnāt any point. Iāll keep searching for a solution.
Youd probably have better luck with a steel plate with adhesive than the magnetic sheet.
I wonder if a Ginopad would work
The silicone thermal pad I used was very tacky. One side glued to the glass and the other stuck well to the heated bed. I didnāt hold it down with clamps or clips or even tape and it didnāt move one bit. You then dont need the magnetic bed. It also cost Ā£7.99!!
Itās Amazon UK but you might want to try this before forking out on something expensive.
Thats probably ideal then, silicone thermal pad would provide optimal heat transfer.
I might go back to it. It was working well but when I moved to the IR sensor I wanted to paint the glass black for optimum accuracy and scrapped it off. Not got round to replacing yet and some bits of blue tape round the edge seems to be working just fine!
Iām going with the thermal pad. Iāve also ordered all the parts for your IR Sensor upgrade, I still do wonder if somehow itās possible to have auto leveling on glass with the stock probe though, without that bulky FiFix.
This is the glass plate I ordered, in one of my comments above.
Lots have tried and I have not seen anybody report success. I am also getting much better accuracy than I even got with the stock sensor either on the original bed or with FiFix on glass. Hope it all goes well for you. I am just looking at whether I can reduce the height of the fan box so that itās further away from whatās being printed. Just need to check if that impacts cooling performance as I dont want to have to go back to a blower on the front of the print head if I can help it.
if you want to calibrate manually or screw around with adding/removing targets and z offsets, sure.
fifix is actually very tiny tho.
Problem is, I canāt find the files for FiFix. Itās not on thingiverse anymore after stefix passed and the library he posted with all the files is a broken link for me.
I have the original zip file. you want fifix?
FiFixĀ±+The+ultimative+Levelingtool+for+Snapmaker+2.0.zip (3.6 MB)
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Awesome! thanks! been looking everywhere for it.
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