@xchrisd i think those links would be great on the link thread that @Tone started in the getting started section. I would put them in their but I’m not sure I understand the link format. But it would be great to have them availible for quick reference to help new users 
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Hi, this as printed on A350 after assembly with the default shipped settings and FAST profile in Luban.
Just a first try 
I got my a350 finally on Monday and got it set up. My first print was an untested benchy modification that I did not have high expectation of and overall it completed well. The narrow towers collapsed but the bulk of the print was clean. My biggest issue was removing it from the bed. I lost 3-4 layers to the bed when I removed it. Cleaning it was a nightmare until I heated the bed to 70 c. It was still a challenge but I got the excess filament removed. I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol after all the filament was removed.
I started a second smaller print that printed very well but had the same issue of removal. My third print was another small print and again same issue. I’m losing 3-4 layers to the bed every time. I’m sure it is something that I’m not doing correctly. If anyone has any suggestions I’d love to hear it.
Hi @groove790,
I hear this a lot, and my assumption is that people calibrate the nozzle too low and it squishes the plastic hard onto the print bed to stick like hell.
Since calibration happens with a cold machine, but nozzle and bed expand when heated, I suggest to calibrate 0.05-0.1 mm higher than the standard procedure suggests. I.e. calibrate so that the calibration card bends when pushed, and then go up by 0.05-0.1 mm before saving calibration. In my case you still clearly feel a resistance of the nozzle on the card, but you can move it without bending.
Also, I do a longer skirt (~3 lines, or longer for smaller prints) and while the skirt prints, I dynamically adjust Z offset so that the plastic is just right. With above calibration, usually Z offset does not need adjustment any more.
My prints always stick excellent but easily snap off. Only “warning”: I did not yet use Snapmaker filament, so there’s a chance the problem is actually the filament itself. But many people claim good prnts with Snapmaker filament, so I doubt that this is the problem
Just heat up the bed and then run calibratIon.
I like 2 or 3 layer skirt too. Helps to see what’s going on and seems to ‘prime’ the system and get filament flowing. If there’s a bad start/ not sticking or extruding it usually shows up there. (This happens occasionally no matter how well your settings are dialed in.) Usually I just run again and it’s fine. Much easier to remove a skirt that’s more than one layer.
-S
As to the calibration: I had got the problem, too (calibration too low), when I did the first calibration: the nozzle scratched a notch into the print bed and move it out of the correct position. Now I calibrate so that the calibration card is hindered to move only very little.
I tried that and it improved. I did have a corner not stick at all but it was a small print that didn’t matter. I also did the first part of the extruder calibration that is suggested and that seems to have helped as well. I did just have to remotely stop a print. It is 9 hours into a 48 hour print and I noticed that one side has exploded. I’m going to continue tweaking the settings. I am printing with the fan on and I may try turning it off. My printer is in a hot garage and I have the enclosure so I keep the exhaust fan on so it doesn’t overheat. The side of the failure is the fan side so I will test that and see as well. Thanks for the advice.