Firmware 2.3.5: problem with vibration calibration

Have been unable to run vibration calibration since update.
Instructions mention loading up both filaments with dissimilar colors, then the left extruder prints the typical test pattern and the stats screen indicates 100% but doesn’t move to the next step. When tapping the screen - the status shows 99% and doesn’t allow one to do anything but select “adjust” (which has to do with temperatures). When quitting out of the calibration, an error message appears, “Unable to stop the job. 211” I’ve cycled power and retried - machine behaved in same way.
I downgraded back to firmware 2.2.4 and Vibration calibration mode is working, as before.

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I upgraded to FWW v2.3.5 and had a similar issue but I had just tried to print a nut for a bolt I had just printed and when the nut started to print it dragged the nozzle across the print surface. I now have a nasty scar on the surface and a clog that I first thought was probably the nozzle, but after replacing the nozzle I still could purge filament so I came here to see if anyone could tell me how to remove the hotend. Found the wiki for that and that’s what I’m in the process of doing.

Yes, I also confirmed this bug, stopped at 99% in vibration calibration since update 2.3.5

I too have the same problem.
Vibration calibration stuck at 99%.

Me too, Vibration calibration after updating won’t finish. :frowning:

Can anyone confirm this bug is solved with the new firmware 2.3.6?

Im now having this issue, stuck at 99% on update. prior to trying the update my prints decided to finish mid print but said it reached 100% completion. haven’t gotten a full print from this thing in over a week!

same on new Firmware. did anyone test the high speed firmware from jade`
the leveling is horrible with the J1 i only get the test and installed calibration parts sucsesfully printed. every other print i try failed, no athesion the the bed. i tried leveling 7 times and more and everytime its the same. miss the manual leveling and postion informations on screen. other printers show the infos like : Z 132,21 or something. that will be helpfull, or when you can get the heads to a leveling position for a manual down to the bed

Hm, I cannot complain about leveling. It works not 100% perfect (but I still need to see the 3D printer where it does, therefore this is expected), so it’s automatic leveling followed by manual checking and fine correction for me - the classic paper method works also for the J1. The only thing you need to do is check once if your glass build plate is really flat - and apply the usual things to the software settings that are known to enhance adhesion.

How can I use paper level method. There is no option do drive the heads to a z 0 point

Ah, yes, you are right, sorry - manually driving up the bed stops at z=5. You need to

  • use a 5mm “paper piece”, or
  • write a “print file” macro with G1 Z0 for that and execute it on the printer or
  • simply use an existing print file that gives you either enough time to press “pause”

to adjust the knobs while it prints the first layer. The z bed leveling pattern file available on printables might be of use.

The patters I have but I try to experiment how can I get the printer on z 0 on tree or more points on the bed, think I need 3 or more separately files and z 0 is crash, I need the point with the build plate in the printer. Offset is over +10 I think.

The 3 point bed holder is not very stable I see. May I need to design an extension holder. But first I need to get level that think first :slight_smile:

I have to admit I do not fully understand your problem. The easiest way is to do automatic calibration first. On my printer, the heads are on the same z level then, x and y also fits, only the overall z tolerance is slightly off, well below a millimeter. Then insert the plate, heat the bed up if you like, move to z=0 and turn off the printer. Then move the head(s) around by hand as you like and correct the leveling by twisting the knobs.

A more elegant way would be to create a print file that moves the head to the three knob positions and waits at each point long enough for you to correct the leveling.

I found the bed to be very stable on its three leveling points by the way, provided the glass plate is inserted correctly.

I initially had a defective print bed holder, maybe check it out.

thats the way to find out the part from printables is working. bad that the part is broke on new printer.
I need to check mine tomorrow, but i dont have issues now

i get it done, work well and i added my Lokbuild Surface on Plate. Now i got badass prints :slight_smile:

i created a gcdoe with 5 points for leveling with a delay. i dont know command for “wait of input to resume”