If you get that you probely dont do the mat right
Look att you calkulation and check agen
Use exel and make formula ther so you just have to feed in last valu from machin and the corection from mesurment 
Thank you. I ended with 253.1 and perfect 100mm extrusion lenght. 253 feels like a lot! And all printed models are bigger, calibration models doesnt fit/have correct measurments any more. So I am using in Cura 92 - 95 flow rate and everything fits correctly (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:342198). My question is, should I keep correct esteps and always tweak printing via flow rate (for another slicers they are call it extrusion multiplier)?
I reed that different filaments will probably use different flow rate. I already used 2 different brands PLA and PETG. If I use my calibrated estepps 253.1 and 100% flow rate, I get always over extrusion. It just feels wierd when I have correct 100mm extrusion and getting over extrusion 
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Hehe, yeah you ask the right question.
I think you are on the right path to just tweak your flow rate for the varying materials as opposed to going through the extruder calibration all the time
Use extruder calibration on the most common used material then flow rate everything else.
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Make sure you calibrate, not only with your most common filament, but also with a new nozzel and at the right temp.
If your extruding right but appear to have over extrusion issues try reducing heat in 5 degree steps until it looks better 
20mm is 1/4 of 80mm so 212.21 + 25% more is 265. so 265 should be right.
I have my estep calbrated preceisely but overextrude quite a bit regardless of that.
what I think works the best is using the slicer flow calibration on this site to come up with a good flow rate, it helps a lot with precision for me personally…
Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration (teachingtechyt.github.io)
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I calibrated mine cold. I think the best is to calibrate it cold, and use flow configuration on nozzle, temp and material change.
On bowden extruders it is the way to do it, only the extruder is calibrated.
Is it on direct extruders the same or not? What are you guys (and perhaps girls?) thinking about?
Is there a terminal program that can be used on an Android phone to connect to the Snapmaker printer? It would be so much easier to connect to my phone than to try to haul a computer to my printer
Think no…
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I tried typing the codes and the console didn’t respond at all. It never should any M92 lines or anything including any data other than the help information. Any help that can be provided would be greatly appreciated.
Are you connected with USB?
-S
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I too can attest to this. Out of the box my a350 was 212.21, and it calibrated to 248.78.
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I got different results with different speeds - what’s the best speed for calibration?
It’s best to calibrate to your average printing speed… that said it should be pretty close across the board.
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Did anyone every answer on why it is set to 3.00 instead of 1.75?
According to this guide and toolset I’m measuring 10% overextrusion with a clean hotend and nozzle, after calibrating my e-steps. https://3dprintbeginner.com/flow-rate-calibration/
I can fix my problems with the flow rate, but I still not understand why this is happening. Could it be that the filament “grows/expands” after it was molten?
I did an extruder calibration several times - maybe it’s a good idea to calibrate it again, but cold, and then fix the flow rate after changing filament?
I really am talking out of my ass here, but i have gained firm belief of the following through my limited experience:
I feel like the esteps calibration is misunderstood and even misapplied a bit here on the forum.
I look at it as e-steps are “consumed filament” and flow rate as “expelled filament”. so while i am now consuming 100mm of filament as instructed, it doesnt necessarily mean that it is giving the results i am needing, so a flow rate adjustment will allow this to compensate.
different filaments will have different densitiies and fluidity, so they may need different flow rates.
e-steps calibration is for putting the machine where it should be so the slicer adjustments can properly output as they expect to.
Also, this line here makes me feel like this is really made for bowden extruders and for a direct drive maybe the nozzle should be removed even.
I would actually really like to revisit this whole concept with some of the better guys and pick this apart a little bit, not that i am challenging anyone but i think that maybe either my understanding is just going in the wrong direction or perhaps the original intention is starting to slip.
in any case, i dont think that the way we are doing the estep adjustment is bad at all, i just think that its only one part of a larger puzzle. it certainly has made alot of people’s lives better so i dont think there is any debate to be had that it should be done, but it just seems like there is more to it than is being acknowledged.
I redid my esteps last night at the 10 degrees hot and slow as prescribed on teaching tech for the reason highlighted above, knowing for some time i had over done it last time due to misreading. i had my machine tuned around my old esteps, now i have to retune my flow rate accordingly. my expected results are going to be slightly more accurate prints with a little less gapping
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As you said, I did my first calibration with detached nozzle (cold), to put out exactly 100 mm, because I already thought that there are differences regarding filament density, temperature and nozzle size.
While I was searching to solve my ‘line’ problem, I did a new calibration - warm, with nozzle and printing temperature, like it was described here.
Afterwards I had some new flow issues.
Lines were still solved at thin walls, but came back on models with retraction needed. The interesting part was that I had overextrusion, instead of underextrusion, which is a more common problem after retraction - that lead me to the idea that I could have overextrusion everywhere. And in fact it was 11% off.
What I’ll do now is the following:
- Do a new cold extruder calibration - just to calibrate the 100mm, and never touch it again.
- adjust the flow for each of my filaments
- Edit: Do a new Retraction calibration
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