Lacquer thinner works best.
Alcohol or acetone work too but usually need some more elbow grease.
-S
Thanks a lot - I saw, you answered this already within your origianl post. Sorry. Iâll try this
Hi,
Here now a first interim report with video. I have packed the glass bottle in blue tape. The area to be lasered remained free. On this then three layers of Mos2. And off into the laser with the settings from above.
Interesting: I had accidentally selected 4 passes and aborted the process after a little more than two passes. In the area where the laser has already been three times, the Mos2 is almost completely gone, without any washing action. In the remaining area, vigorous scrubbing is necessary and it still does not come off.
Perhaps the easiest way to remove the Mos2 is with another pass⊠
Link to video Part 1
I will keep trying and report here in this thread
Hi,
I have now successfully completed the experiment. Removing the MoS2 was super easy in the end. I just let the laser travel over the complete area one more time. In the process, the remaining MoS2 dried completely and became brittle. So I was able to strip most of it off with my fingernail. I scrubbed off the rest with a scouring pad. Any thinner, alcohol or the like was no longer necessary. The result can be seen.
Complete Video
Beschreibung
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Interesting. I donât think the brand I used reacted that way.
I also donât think it left that kind of or much residue even with a single pass.
Or maybe it was and I wasnât being that picky.
I wonder if itâs a slightly different formula.
Maybe thereâs a difference in the glass.
Iâll have to pay more attention next time I do it.
-S
I just ran another test on this on Borosilicate glass, one run with the Dry Moly lube, and one with black Tempra paint. Tempra paint for the win! Same settings etc, the moly lube made a mark but VERY faint, and it was hard to get out of the cracks in the glass without high temperatures (an annealing cycle in a kiln)
The tempra is a little harder to apply evenly, but doesnât have nasty volatiles, marks MUCH better, and rinses off pretty completely.
Attached, a pic of the engraving with Tempra, 5x magnification (the image on the camera sensor was 5x on an APS-C sensor, multiply the 5x by (your screen size / APS-C sensor size) and youâll get the mag youâre looking at.
You can see the individual laser dots where the heat from the vaporizing tempra paint spalled the glass due to the very rapid temperature change. You can also see near the middle of the images, the typical edges of fractured glass.
This is not some chemical reaction with the glass, youâre actually engraving the glass. Itâs totally permanent.
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