Hello,
I had asked this on a post but I think it got lost in the hustle and bustle of activity of new makers 
If my machine is idle, and i connect to it via wifi, what is involved to turn the fan on 100%
i see in the marlin information that you can add variables such as percentage of speed and so forth, but a straight forward ON full power is supposed to be a simple M106
However, this does not seem to do anything for me. Do I need to do some pre-requisite commands or something?
I am trying to test my fan because its hard to tell if its blowing or not. I think it MIGHT be but my temperature tests are not going well anymore and i want to make sure that it isnt the fan malfunctioning.
M106 is all you need. If that’s not working, something is broken 
Do you have a 12V or 24V source of power to plug the fan into to test? Even 2 9V batteries clipped to each other in series will work. Smaller terminal is +
All right, yeah I can test it out another way then.
you can’t send gcode-commands via wifi. this only works via USB Serialconnection.
well no you can send commands but cant receive feedback from the machine actually
I think my fan is working… if i pop it off of there i can feel the wind flow during a print, i must have goofed something else up for it not to run from the command somewhere. going to practice that a bit.
so i am having a hard time interpreting why my temp tower had all identical bridges - relatively decent, but all had a loop downwards on the right hand side near the cliff.
is it possible i have too much cooling?
i need to put in a flow rate of .79 on my prints to get best results on stuff, the temp tower configuration doesnt allow for that manually. i should probably download the g-code and find where to edit the flow rate before doing it to i can make sure it isnt related to over extrusion i think. i am not 100% sure thats a function of one single line of code vs the slicer doing compensation for it dimensionally… i dont see anything on the marlin list about it so maybe thats not doable and instead i should probably figure out how to edit the layer temps on a stl temp tower instead.
id have to print a new one i destroyed it trying to see if there was any main structural integrety differences between the layers.
i had done the extruder calibration previously, but if my flow rate seems consistantly OVER, is that a sign i should revisit this? perhaps the adjustment worked to my detriment? or are these just separate things by nature?
PLA typically has a flow rate of .9 to 1.0, .79 is indicating something is wrong.
Too much cooling is possible but what you’re describing doesn’t sound like too much cooling. Sagging happens because of not enough cooling. Too much cooling will also result in poor layer adhesion, something you’re not having. There’s other considerations too.
Check your filament diameter, check your e steps, print another single wall cube. If that’s all the same still and you still get .79 flow then so be it. Seems off though.
The loop down can also be caused by too low infill overlap, and a variety of other things, hard to say conclusively.
I recall I was never happy with the presliced one, I ended up doing my own temp tower using s3d and the multi process wizard
1 Like
Yeah i know the flow rate is weird on it, i was going to redo the exrusion calibration to see what would happen and need to bring my laptop home to do it.
all in all my prints are coming out OK, i got some gapping right now, but thats because i have it tuned a certain way in order to expedite a project i am doing (christmas presents made from multiple parts in different colors, i tried to keep it good but i just dont have the time anymore gota get it done)
heres one that i have a mountain of parts on before i finally got it together, not perfect but im happy enough with it to give to my sister.
i think i would have needed to change out a .2 nozzle to get it any better because some of the lines were so narrow that they just made a mess, so i went a little crazy on minimizing things.
the wall thickness is about dead on for it beyond the gapping, and i know i can further get it tuned up, just tryin to get something done!
it would be nice if the snapmaker display could have a console mode and you plug a keyboard into the USB slot to use it! i havent fiddled with the cell phone console yet.
For the record, what you had said was bothering me.
I went back and checked my e-steps, and it is exactly as i set it, i measured 100mm and it consumed 100mm
also check my filament all the time, so thats not either
i find it strange that my machine over extrudes so much, but it just kinda does.
the problem is when i cut the flow rate, i tend to see some gapping.
I think i need to experiment with overlaps a bit to get rid of that.
Play with this parameter - I found it’s very sensitive to it:
I did a ‘binary search’ of sorts:
Print at 10%, 50% - then 30% seemed reasonable - then 20, then 21 was it.
1 Like
Thanks for the tip i will give it a whirl
