Discussion of Snapmaker Artisan Firmware Updates

This thread is for dicussion of the Snapmaker Artisan Firmware Updates.

I noticed that negative values cannot be entered in the settings menu under maintenance for the z offset. This means the nozzle cannot be lowered. this is only possible during a running print.

If I manually move the X-axis to the right in 100, 10 or 1mm increments, then I can do this until the axis blocks mechanically at the stop. The position value counts the steps further and further although the axis does not move further and the motor tries to move further. Doesn’t sound healthy for the mechanics either.

The same applies to the Y-axis when you move it backwards.

I think hardware limit switches are only installed on one side?

Shouldn’t there be a software limit switch on the other side to prevent the axis from moving against the mechanical end?

Installed FW: V2.1.1

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I’m having issue with x offset since I updated the firmware from what came in the shipment (1.2.?) to the latest 2.1.1 and 2.2.1.
The nozzle is too low and scratches the PIE sheet, despite multiple calibrations, including manual ones on the 2.1.1.
The first layer of the prints are always too jagged and too thin indicating low nozzle height. I also hear the nozzle literally scratching the PIE.
Things improve iqf I manually elevate the x hight to 0.5 mm for both nozzles during printing.
Any help is welcome.
Thanks

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same problem when calibrated with the delivered calibration sheet. I calibrate it now with a 0.2mm metal sheet and this works fine.

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Hi, I am sorry if this is not the right place (if so please move this reply)!

Is it possible to make firmware/software updates with the artisan without internet connection? (I want to buy the Artisan but it will stand were DEFINITELY no internet connection - only LAN - is available.) Could it be updated with firmware from a USB stick/ connected PC where the firmware is places before? Do you see any other problems with it not having internet connection?

Thanks!

Hi Dassy, Artisan supports to be updated and print via USB flash drives.

Thank you very much!! Then it will be :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

I attempted to update to the latest firmware via WiFi on the Artisan Integrated Controller, but it appears to be stuck at 80%. It has been sitting at 80% for over an hour. Does the firmware update really take that long or has something gone wrong? If the firmware update fails to complete, how should I proceed to get the machine back up and running?

same here - seams to be a bed-leveling problem to me, cause its scratching at the edge but 0.2 in the middle are enough to get some adhesion
objects often tear of - whitch means at some edges adhesion isn’t enough

btw. is there e new Link for v 2.2.1 firmware?

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v. 2.21 seems to be here:
https://s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/snapmaker.com/download/firmware/Artisan_V2.2.1_20230309.bin

I have the same issue and its been days and haven’t been able to resolve it. Can you please explain how you used a 0.2mm sheet to calibrate your Artisan?

I have logged a support ticket with Snapmaker; I am not at all pleased with their initial reply. Here is my reply, in the hopes someone in the forum can explain to me what I am doing wrong if any.

REPLY TO SNAPMAKER:

I am afraid the recommendation isn’t relevant as I have been using the in-built calibration method to try and get a good Z and X/Y axis result. When using the in-built calibration process the bed is heated to 70 degrees Celsius for the Bed-Levelling and 65 degrees Celsius for X /Y Calibration. I have run the calibration tests for hours at a time trying all manner of auto and manual calibration tests even manually offsetting to the axis to compensate but to no avail. So I am confident the bed has been appropriately heated.

For your reference I am running firmware 2.2.1.

The issue here isn’t the X/Y axis; yes it looks terrible but its because the Z axis is way off. What I have attempted to do over the last few days is:

  • METHOD 1

    • I have ran the 9 x 9 81 point bed-levelling calibration
    • Then ran the Z axis auto calibration.
    • Then the X/Y axis calibration ← When running this calibration test the dual print head moves to the bottom left of the build plate
      • to print the initial pre-test strips; the left print head (Snapmaker Black PLA) hardly prints any plastic at all; in fact you can hear the brass head dragging over the glass PEI plate!
      • The right print head (Snapmaker White Support PLA) begins to print its initial pre-test strip; it for the most part prints normally.
    • RESULT: The actual X/Y test is a failure; with the results appearing to show that the black PLA print head is running far too near the print bed. ← Well this is what I think, not speaking from experience though.
  • METHOD 2

    • I have ran the 9 x 9 81 point bed-levelling calibration
    • Then ran the Z axis Sensor calibration. ← Because the Z Axis Auto Calibration doesn’t seem to be working.
      • Using the supplied white calibration card; I step the heads down manually until both Right and Left heads are touching the card, can be pulled toward me but cannot be pushed back under the head it wrinkles.
      • I then run the Z axis Auto Calibration
    • Then the X/Y axis calibration ← When running this calibration test the dual print head moves to the bottom left of the build plate
      • to print the initial pre-test strips; the left print head (Snapmaker Black PLA) hardly prints any plastic at all; in fact you can hear the brass head dragging over the glass PEI plate!
      • The right print head (Snapmaker White Support PLA) begins to print its initial pre-test strip; it for the most part prints normally.
    • RESULT: Failure with the X/Y test looking no different to METHOD 1 and the print head dragging across the print bed
  • METHOD 3

    • I have ran the 9 x 9 81 point bed-levelling calibration
    • Then ran the Z axis Sensor calibration. ← Because the Z Axis Auto Calibration doesn’t seem to be working.
      • Using the supplied white calibration card; I step the heads down manually until both Right and Left heads are touching the card, can be pulled toward me but cannot be pushed back under the head it wrinkles.
      • I then run the Z axis Auto Calibration
    • Then the X/Y axis calibration ← When running this calibration test the dual print head moves to the bottom left of the build plate
      • to print the initial pre-test strips; the left print head (Snapmaker Black PLA) hardly prints any plastic at all; in fact you can hear the brass head dragging over the glass PEI plate!
      • The right print head (Snapmaker White Support PLA) begins to print its initial pre-test strip; it for the most part prints normally.
    • RESULT: Failure with the X/Y test looking no different to METHOD 1 and the print head dragging across the print bed
  • METHOD 4

    • I have ran the 9 x 9 81 point bed-levelling calibration
    • Then ran the Z axis Sensor calibration. ← Because the Z Axis Auto Calibration doesn’t seem to be working.
      • Using the supplied white calibration card; I step the heads down manually until both Right and Left heads are touching the card, can be pulled toward me but cannot be pushed back under the head it wrinkles.
      • I then run the Z axis Auto Calibration
    • Then the X/Y axis calibration ← When running this calibration test the dual print head moves to the bottom left of the build plate
      • I manually update the Right and Left heads with an offset of anywhere 0.05mm all the way to 0.2mm
      • RESULT: Failure with the X/Y test. No combination of positive offset seems to satisfy this test; the patterns either print correctly on the far left and right sides in the X axis and not in the middle. The Y axis will print correctly the top half of the pattern and then not at all the bottom half. There doesn’t seem to be any happy medium (an offset) that is somewhere in the middle that results in a good print.
  • METHOD 5

    • Reset factory defaults – This wipes the newer firmware, and the device defaults the original firmware.
    • Follow the Out of the Box experience calibration method. I.e load filament → Level Bed → Calibrate.
    • Same result as METHOD 1

If I had to hazard a guess the Z Axis sensor that measures how far it is from the build plate is not functioning.

BTW at least two other owners of the Artisan have experienced the same issue; you can find their posts here. I tried using a 0.2mm Feeler Gauge with the manual Senor Calibration; this didn’t work for me.

Please advise on how to troubleshoot and fix this issue; as it stands my very expensive investment is completely unusable and isn’t making anything wonderful!

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I am currently in the midst of trying to get a cura profile up and running with Artisan and while I’ve been having some issues- (mainly due to speed and flow rate I think) none are first layer related.

I have been running the 9x9 bed calibration and setting the Z offset manually with a 0.2mm feeler gauge; however, I am unsure why you are running the auto z calibration after manually setting your Z offset. This cancels out the manual adjustment you just did. Also, you should run the 9x9 at your printing temperature and not higher than that (in this case 65C, you can change this by tapping on the box on screen in the top right-hand corner). I’m not sure on how large of an affect this is having on your bed leveling matrix but I’m sure it’s not helping. Next step or rather first step, make sure your bed is mounted properly, I had an issue where I didn’t get it flatly secured to the machine. After that, if you suspect that it’s the PEI, then try flipping the bed over and using the glass side, you may need to use a glue stick for adhesion, but it should be flatter than the PEI.

If you could post some picture of your failures, it could help identify exactly what is going on here.

Hello,

Thank you for your support and advice.

Here are some calibration tests; all of them are a miserable failure. I should note this happened after two weeks of close to perfect printing. As a new user I went through the Out of Box Experience levelling, Z-Axis and XY-Axis calibration protocol, my experience was initially very positive. Since then going through the same steps auto or manually has resulted in the following; all the below tests were done with a 9 x 9 65 degree Celsius bed-levelling protocol.

0.2mm Z-axis manual offset calibration with feeler gauge

0.15mm Z-Axis manual offset calibration with feeler gauge

0.1mm Z-Axis manual offset calibration with feeler gauge

You might notice the gouge marks from performing an Z-Axis Auto-Calibration, I have no confidence in the automatic calibration, even after performing a Sensor-Calibration; just seems broken.

Let me know your thoughts.

Updated to v2.1.1 and most annoying I can no longer delete files from the touch screen, it just spins and you have to restart the artisan. Laser mode FWIW.

latest v. 2.2.3 here
https://s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/snapmaker.com/download/firmware/Artisan_V2.2.3_20230330.bin

Still an issue on laser only with new firmware.

An option to turn off notifications (e.g. when a file has been sent to snapmaker) would be great.
A stop button when loading/unloading the filament would be great.

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latest 2.2.4 here:
https://tinyurl.com/2ay3ajrc