This comment has lead me down an interesting path. I am now using this to print parts for its replacement. Poorly, but it has a larger print volume than my ender does and thus does a better job of printing more parts at a time. I’m already up to my fourth reprint on some of the parts…
Looking at some of the specifications for the Voron 2.4 design, it prints faster with the same print volume as the SM. I actually really like the idea of the flying Gantry design as well because a lot of the issues that I seem to have with adhesion come from the fact that the bed vibrates like a bedroom toy as it moves around depending on the pathing for the print job.
It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to notice that the violent vibrations seem to be popping the parts off of the bed. What I am seeing right now as far as print quality issues appears to be related to cold spots on the heated bed. Anything that gets too far from center, and that doesn’t need to be all that far mind you, doesn’t get heated properly and warps off the bed.
Weirdly enough, it seems like some of the best prints I’ve had have been the parts to replace this machine with a different one. It’s almost as if it was aware that I was trying to get rid of it and was trying to do a good job until I proved to be too determined. After that I’ve had one failure after another again.
If you are an engineer at all, or are reasonably savvy with electronics, I would highly recommend looking at this DIY solution for a 3D printer. While it seems daunting at first, it is much less so when you consider that the SM machines show up without two parts screwed together in the entire package. You end up having to assemble the whole damn thing yourself anyway so might as well buy one that is up front about that, prints faster, and is specifically designed as per their documentation not to be fiddled with once it is set up properly.