Hydroperoxyl is good stuff - ozone destroyer, quite reactive
Dihydrogen monoxide, however…
And yes, I haven’t had acrylic nails, but regardless DCM is a 1B carcinogen - it’s much more hazardous than water.
Probably. I’ll try cleaning my burnt with it and let you know.
If not, the worst that happens is it’s still ruined.
I keep seeing weld-on #3 is a good way to remove the PLA from a nozzle. Weldon #5 was too but i guess they dont make it anymore
We have scigrip #3 which evidently is weld on 3 i dont know why they call it weldon 3 when its clearly labeled as scigrip #3 with a weld-on small logo in the corner, but
i should just bring a can home and be done with it, im used to fiddling with it already.
we were using it to polish edges of 3/4" polycarbonate/acrylic AR panels for a very long time. very effective at essentially instantly cleaning a sanded edge of PC to be as smoothe as if it was cast that way but you gota be careful not to hit any scratch resistant coating cuz it will eat it right off
we have stopped using this recently because they were telling us it could contribute to delamination and we didnt want the headache.
says its for use on petg as well.
Ethel acetate is slow but it is softening up the plastic. Softening, but still the shape of the original filament, rather than dissolving away.
After 4 hours, I had about 1/2 inch sticking out of each nozzle and it softens the filament enough for it to break off. So now I have two little white miniature logs floating around in the liquid, next to the nozzles which are still plugged.
I’ll let them continue to soak overnight, and by then, the plastic should be soft enough to remove the plugs with a long, thin needle.
Yeah, that’s what I meant. :}
Ok, overnight, it’s about the same, with the nozzles still full. I don’t have time now, but I’ll clean them out later. This looks like a good way to salvage a nozzle. I’ll try the DCM the next time a nozzle clogs.
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The cost of a nozzle or a hole hotend are nothing against that 
So three times now, when the build failed, I’ve unloaded the filament and each time I’ve removed the nozzle, there was ¼ inch of filament sticking out behind the nozzle. This last time, even more special, the nylon bushing/sleeve came out stuck to the filament.
I’ve got a new nozzle on one of the ends and have stuck the thermistor into its tube with Thermalright TF4 paste. I’ll let it sit overnight and try another print tomorrow.
And if anyone would like to share their preferences for filament brands, I’d love to hear it.
Matterhackers. They have earned my business with both quality and customer service.
Prusament is supposed to be great too.
Hatchbox or amazon basics for a “cheap filament” at least for PLA.
Ok, I’ll check out Matterhackers.
Any opinions by anyone about Tecbears? Sunlu?
I personally had straight garbage from tecbears.
Dont know sunlu, but it might be all right.
Prusament is great.
Liked what I’ve gotten from filamentone.
Just tried a roll from Amolen of glow in the dark that I really like.
I think one quick way to check quality of filament is what kind of tolerance they list for dimension. Whether they deliver on that is another thing, but it’s a starting point. Prusament is known for this and you can even check your individual roll online.
-S
Amolen has the RED glow in the dark i was wanting to try that 
Sunlu worked great. Has a little more shine than Hatchbox.
For Tecbears I have success with nozzle temp at 213:210 and the bed temp at 80:60. The result is good and what trouble I had was with the model. The blue tape made removal easy and the resulting print is solid.
Further, I am able to make multiple prints on the same nozzle. Previously I’ve been using one nozzle per print. (I have 40 replacement nozzles 
)
Much better result than with the Snapmaker filament.
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I’ll go one better - The hot end heats up to temp much faster than the bed gets to its working temp.
If you level your bed, fine tune the vertical, then load your G-Code and click go, the nozzle will be cooking the filamant, turning it into a burnt plug before the bed is hot.
So add the step where you manually heat the bed up to temp and THEN hit ‘go’ on the job. Then, the job will start immediately after the hot end is ready.
That’s how I got through a 50 hour print with Tecbears white, at 213/210 c
Since then, I dropped the bed temps to 70:60 and I’m thinking of staying at 70:55. With Tecbears, at least, wait until the bed is completely cooled before attempting to remove the model. Otherwise, it could round the bottom.
And printing on tape/glue stick is better than directly on the bed, but it’s still hard to remove the print. Larger flat areas stick really well.