Sure. I’m guessing it’s just a basic citrus cleaner and won’t do anything, but testing will confirm.
From their website: Created from an entirely natural origin and is a by-product of the citrus processing industry.
It was all the white grime… that came off… combination of left over PLA marks and probably a lot of glue marks, not stuck on PLA chunks. The bottle I got was the yellow labeled spray bottle. It is expensive but works great on my BBQ smoker glass LOL
OK. Ill order some.
We use citric acid at work to passivate stainless steel (removes free iron particles to prevent surface corrosion)
One gallon of Amazing Whip-It Miracle Cleaner Concentrate cleaner coming on Thursday.
edit: i can also make this a fun party and get some of these too
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Limonene. Can be had without additives or markups. Get what’s called “technical grade”; it’s what the direct product is from extraction without a lot of purification. Higher purity grades are expensive and not needed unless you’re using in as reagent in a chem lab.
It can be skin irritant, so wear gloves. It’s NFPA 704 health rating is 2 (same as DCM), so don’t breathe the fumes.
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Oops 
And? Does it work? Then i’ll get something like this, too.
No.
It does not.
No more than anything else does anyhow.
I know I’m super late to the party, but I just saw this because I had the same problem: a fine skirt around my print, which I couldn’t get off, and I was starting to gouge the bed.
My solution was to go into the settings and heat the bed up to 100 degrees. You have to be careful because yes, it’s hot and it will burn you, but it softened up the PLA to the point where I could get a bit of it up with the scraper. Then I used the tweezers to very carefully peel it off. Most of the remainder came off with water and a firm scrub with a wash cloth. Again, though, if you’re going to play with the temperature of the bed, be careful!
It’s funny, I went back and saw what I said earlier in this thread and see I had quit using skirt because of being hard to get off. I’ve changed my mind on that. I like how it primes the nozzle and gets things flowing. I now do a 3 layer skirt because it’s easier to get off.
-S
A 3-layer skirt is an excellent idea – I’ll poke around the software and see if I can try that as well. Thank you!
Oh, thank you kindly! Screenshots are always super useful. I’ll be tweaking a project today and will run another print and see how it goes. Much appreciated!
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As an update, here’s what I did and it worked well:
- set the skirt to print 3 layers
- after removing the printed object, went into “controls” and raised the heated bed temp to 70 degrees (I’d originally reported 100 degrees; I find it’s not necessary to get it that hot).
- once the bed was at temp, I slid the edge of the palette knife under one side of the skirt and pulled it up. I was able to grab it and gently pull the whole thing off the bed. (** DANGER: Be careful if you do this - the bed is hot! **)
- after I set the bed temp to 0 degrees and let it cool down, I gently washed it off with hot water and dish detergent ,immediately drying off with a clean dish towel.
I can still see remnants of the print on there, but it’s extremely faint and unlikely to interfere with future prints.
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This means your probably still just a hair too close to the bed. But if your happy with your results, that is all that matters.
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You know, I’ve actually been having trouble reproducing a print, and I think that might be the issue. I’m calibrating as per the instructions, but I wonder if it’s still just a click too close to the bed. That’s my next step towards trying to figure out why I can’t get a consistent copy.
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Well, I cleared off a big patch of PLA stuck to the bed. A friend suggested 90 proof grain alcohol. Best I could do was 80 proof and I’m a stickler for matching or exceeding.
Checked the other booze cabinet. Ha. Who would have guessed absinthe is 136 proof. That did seem to loosen it up and I chipped at it with my chef’s knife and got it off with elbow grease and time. It did leave some minor dings but it’s now covered in blue painter’s tape, no problem.
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Yes! Excellent choice. That’s the one I have.
But I found it a lot easier to heat up the bed to 60C+ and scrape it off. Wear a BBQ or Oven mitt.
Ditto. Heating the bed works better than any other method I’ve found. I haven’t needed to use a 5-in-1 tool, the palette knife that comes with the SM works well enough.
Getting painter’s tape off is an entirely other problem though. It lifts or peels away when the bed is hot, then adheres solidly when the bed cools. Pretty much the opposite of what one wants.
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