I was being too clean with the bed but now since seasoning with the glue stick I don’t even bother cleaning it apart from removing the print. By be is defiantly warped at the rear, its easily visible so I have raised a support email. Yes the levelling mesh will take care of it but 1.5mm would mean the bottom of prints are not within tolerance.
Ok… I must be doing something wrong with the glue stick. I went and purchased the Elmer’s Disappearing purple school glue stick that the other user said he used and it isn’t working at all. I just use the glue stick like I would have used it in school. When the bed heats up though it is dry and slick and the filament doesn’t stick. My first prints went great! Now I can get nothing to print. Just super frustrating. Here are my first prints:
The frog is the one that stuck and after I cleaned the plate nothing has printed since. Is there a trick to the amount of glue to use? Super thin? 3 layers? Thanks for all the help.
Glue stick, hairspray, or you can use something called Magigoo which is made for 3d printing, which i personally like to use but im starting to get to the point i dont need it as much unles sim doing something big
Well. After reading this thread and another thread about calibration I found that I needed to move my Z axis to -.1 and it seems to stick. I am printing a calibration cube from Thingiverse.com right now. It is the 20mm XYZ cube and it seems to be doing well after I moved the Z that amount. Now I did a couple of test runs and just printed part of the raft and it seems that I needed to move it -.1 again when I started the print again. Is this right? Is there a way that after you do this type of test that you can set the default to that -.1? Still a noob but doing my best to learn. Thanks to everyone willing to help on here. You all are a life saver! 
It should save the value if you do the z-offset during a print.
Are you on the latest firmware?
Keep in mind, the next time you calibrate, this will revert, because you are starting fresh. you could always calibrate and enter that offset before saving to finish the calibration, which will consider it zero.
also, the bed temperature will affect the print sheet too, so once you are getting more comfortable with things you might want to try to pre-heat the sheet first then quickly do the calibration (the heater wont stay on during it)
finally, the sheet is not very flat unfortunately, different areas of the sheet may have a different distance so for now try to stick to the center until you are more familiar with dealing with it
after you have printed for awhile, i could recommend going into the settings and increasing the calibration grid from 3 to 5 which will have a bit more accuracy in accommodating the bed differences.
everybody prints a little different and there are tons of opinions out there on the best way to do things, and the fun part is figuring out what works and doesnt work
1 Like
@Jjonesiii,
If you’ve raised the z-offset because stuff was sticking too well you may have raised it too high to compensate. Then when you start using glue stick it’s too high and now not getting adhesion. 3D printing is a lot about adjusting and compensating and some times when you tweak one thing you then have to tweak another. Share some shots of your first layers. Like to see how they’re laying down.
I use glue stick (purple elmers) occasionally with a new PLA but mainly only with PETG now. Many people will tell you you shouldn’t need anything if you’re calibrated correctly (which is true) and shame you for using it, but I find it gives me an extra margin of safety.
I know some people go to great lengths to spread it evenly or put it on and then wipe it with water or alcohol. I’ve found that just giving it a quick coat with light slightly overlapping passes works fine for me. Works for somewhere between 5-10 prints and then I usually wash off with water and then reapply.
-S
I don’t have a first layer per se as I am finally printing a cookie cutter for my son’s friend and they are exchanging these gifts tomorrow so I need this to finish tonight. Here is the raft and I think it is printing very well at this point. I did a 20mm cube right before this and it printed perfectly. The raft popped right off the board and the cube separated from the raft almost as if it was held on by a magnet it was so effortless. Let me know if you think this is looking correct. Also I copied the High Quality profile and basically just added the raft and double all the printing speeds. Still coming out great.
The raft looks good to me i think you’ll be all right!
Watch that speed if you doubled it, if theres any “stuff” sticking up the nozzle might catch on it and pop it off
Yeah… Wasn’t a good idea… Going back to default High quality settings as it didn’t work doubling the speed. I have to do some more testing and tweaking to get that to work. Thanks again for all the help.
You can solve a lot of problems by slowing down. (and vice versa)
-S
Abandon all hope of printing fast.
3d printing is a slow man’s game.
As you get better you will be able to increase your speeds, and some slicers will provide much better gcode than others… at the cost of either knowing a lot more experience under the belt to allow a huge variety of fine tuned adjustments and/or financial investment in software.
Give yourself a few days then download cura, be prepared to be both astonished and annoyed at the intricacy that you get get into with these adjustments (start on the basic then work yourself up to more advanced settings, they unlock in tiers)
Share a link to your thing file and I will give you the estimated print time for me, ill even do it with the raft for apples to apples. I am curious about the results against lubans results i might even print one
The alcohol (even 100%) will not remove the coating. Scraping will(i have removed it with even light scraping once it was heated)
1 Like
Not true, if you want to print fast buy a delta printer, it will knock your socks off with fast prints 
hehe i did see some footage of someone’s and it was pretty amazing
I just tried a spray called Whip-it. Spayed it on, waited 10 seconds and wiped it off… the bed was spotless. It says its all naturals … but I don’t know the long term affects on the bed.
Really? Did it remove caked on plastic?
Can you show the specific bottle you got? I’d like to see the SDS sheet on it to review chemical compatibility.
Me too:
THE IDENTITY OF INDIVIDUAL COMPONENTS OF THIS MIXTURE
IS PROPRIETARY INFORMATION AND IS REGARDED TO BE A
TRADE SECRET IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PROVISION OF
1910.1200 OF THE CFR.
Well, dangit!
Apparently nothing is hazardous and it has a citrus odor…hmmm.
Does it come in pulp free and medium pulp varieties?
Is that really a thing?
Wouldn’t every company do the same thing?
Most companies do, but if it’s hazardous you still have to list it.
Also I pulled that out of an older MSDS. Newer SDS sheets only require listing anything if it’s hazardous, so all it says is “nothing is hazardous”. If you want to look for yourself: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/8f/8f2481b3-0f44-43a6-824c-b18da6016972.pdf
All right well,
I do have a print sheet that is straight up fucked from the shitty plastic that came from the machine.
Perhaps I will experiment with the chemical to see if it does anything nasty.
A soak perhaps?