Capacitor exploded when I turned it on : SnapMaker 2.0

So my high school art teacher girlfriend bought a SnapMaker 2.0 a few weeks ago. Sets it up in the living room with the enclosure and gets the 3D printing dialled in, trys out the laser, all good.

Anyway, she sets it up at school, plugs it in and when she switches it on, POP…ZAPPP…SMOKE… Immediately switches it off and unplugs it. Brings it home, and I took one whiff. Burnt smell and wisps of burnt paper.

She submit this info on the Customer Service portal a week ago on January 20th. No response. I would hope for better.

Disappointed,

Brian C.

Usually the cause of this is plugging the connector into the heads backwards. Yes, it’s got a tab that’s supposed to keep this from happening, but unfortunately it’s flexible enough that it doesn’t always stop one from doing it and the pins are rather stupidly engineered so that it can be reversed. If you do a search of this board you’ll see that it’s fairly common.
Sometimes it fries just the head, sometimes it fries both the head and the controller (the hub that things plug into).
People have had mixed results with SM taking care of it as a warranty replacement, but since it’s a known problem that they acknowledge it’s worth a try. Especially since yours is brand new.
It’s Chinese new year so support is especially slow right now. They’ve also had covid issues. Hopefully things should return to normal soon.

-S

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SD, Thanks for your insights. I see how that could happen, but you would have to be trying pretty hard to force it. My gf is but a delicate flower lacking the brute force and stubbornness of which I am so richly endowed, and the only thing that got unplugged for transit from home to her classroom was the cable to the wall outlet. The power cable from the power supply to the hub has both a clip on the outside AND a unique rib on the inside so only this cord can slot into this hub outlet and in only one orientation.

The hub contains a double stacked controller board for all the Axes, extruder, print head, hot bed, enclosure, etc… The blown capacitor is in the middle of the double stack making it inaccessible and not replaceable by mere mortals with a soldering station.

It really doesn’t take much force at all and is really easy to do - at least to make enough of a connection to fry it. It might not fully seat. If it did it wouldn’t happen as often as it does. Part of the problem (which I think maybe they’ve changed?) was that you couldn’t have the enclosure light on while the machine was powered off, so you were having to swap cables without any lighting. You should never unplug or plug the cables with power on.

Power cable is designed how the rest of the cables should’ve been.

It could easily be a faulty capacitor or a bad solder joint or something else. But far and away the leading and usual cause of your symptoms is the reversed plug.

-S

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It’s so easy to do. It doesn’t have to ‘click’ to give reverse power is the main issue.