Well, I managed to BBQ the Controller (where all the cables plug-in) and have verified it is dead, no pulsing, no nothing.
Support.zendesk@snapmaker.com they and I are fast becoming well known to each other.
“What did the crazy American do this time?”
“He blew up A350 Controller.”
“. . .” “. . .”
So yeah, we are kind of rough on the Snapmaker.
So I have had to put in a request for a replacement to purchase.
I am going to go ahead and buy directly from Snapmaker, while there is a 3-D store in New York that has parts, they do not yet have the controllers in stock.
Some improvements I would like to see on the Snapmaker 2.0 controller.
Overload fuse on the controller module. We have to be able to have a fusible link that can be replaced instead of having to order a new controller module from China that takes a week to get where one is.
Cause of BBQ? I accidentally reversed the cable plug on a module and off it went, electrical smell, no smoke, but definitely something BBQ’d. Such is life.
I just may buy another Snapmaker and keep it for spare parts.
Yeah… Not the easiest problem to solve but I would have had non-reversible connectors and hot plug as design goals.
Polyfuses would be very difficult here but electronic fuses are not hard.
After ordering a spare motor to add to my spare printhead, I was wondering today about a spare controller too …
Usually the best way from having to ever need a part is to have a spare. 
-S
1 Like
I think its time to design a print that acts as an adaptor to the cable to make them ONLY pluggable in one direction, because snapmaker dropped the ball on that one. Another victim RIP
They clearly intended a one-way plug but didn’t implement very well.
Aye, should have said fuses instead of the fusible link. They replied quickly, stating how much the controller was, where to send payment, what my shipping address is, and to please send screenshots of payment too.
Then they said, " Please send a photo of the issue and we can help diagnose the issue."
" . . . "
" . . . "
Um, it is DEAD, I smelled the electrical BBQ of DEATH. I got a full-on whiff of electrical death with my head inside the enclosure.
Controller cost is $89 and $15 shipping. (Hopefully by fast plane and not a rowboat from China.) 
The best perspective is to order spare parts, so you have them for the day orange flames from the printer are chasing you around the hobby shop.
If you’re sure it’s dead, I would love to open it up and do a post mortem exam. I am an EE
Once the new ones come in, (I ordered two), I will after installing the new controller open it up to see where it croaked.
I will try to take hi-res photos of the dead thing for you to see.
I will do a plug by plug removal and install on the old and new ones so I don’t get confused over the cables. (Frankly, color-coded cables would be nice.)
I put labels on mine. The factory ones are hard to see
There are poly fuses by littlefuse on each port. If you reverse the connector, the datalines als get switchedup an i think thats whats killing the controller. Having a diode to prevent reverse current would have been a good idea though, maybe space linitations.
The controller internaly is split in two boaeds, i took mine apart to see whats inside.
They make diodes that would fit in there, so there is no excuse. Likely cost-cutting for manufacturing. Maybe by Snapmaker 5.0 we will see changes. They could of course upgrade the controllers so this would not happen, but they are not using critical thinking in their development process.
I am going to do that on the new controllers when they come in.
I am very surprised to see polyswitches there.
1 Like
Hi guys and gals,
I received my replacement control module on Monday, May 10th, and removed the old one.
If you look at the photo image we uploaded, look at chip U8, you will see the burnt area on the top of the chip.
Chip Identification: YF04E.
Chip Information https://people.wallawalla.edu/~ralph.stirling/classes/engr480/docs/Mori/M700_M70%20PLC%20Interface%20Manual.pdf
The repair if even tried would be dicey, so a better option is just a complete replacement.
Wanted to add that the version of the controller that failed is: V.2.0.01.
Assuming YF04E is the marking (can’t read the picture myself) then that’s not the right chip. It’s a level translator: https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/txs0104e.pdf
Replacing with a hot air gun would be trivial.
About $1: https://www.arrow.com/en/products/txs0104epwr/texas-instruments
That is the only damaged component that I found. I noted in total including the chips not damaged, there are six of the YF0E’s all align next to the ports for the cable plug-in ports. U8 and U9 being so close together align with the toolhead port and the port below that one which is for additional components.
Being that I screwed up and plugged a toolhead in backwards, it was chip U8 that was damaged.
An additional chip that is used for robotic controllers is present, which is the VP230.
https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/477/VP230.php
There are only two of those.
The largest chip is GD32F305.
The spec sheet: GD32F305VGT6
So after you replaced the controller did you have to update the firmware…?
Hello!
Please help me: I destroyed my controller on the 2.0 350 today. The snapmaker had just finished a print, wanted to switch to laser and when I plugged in the laser module it popped and smoke came out of the controller. I forgot to turn off. The controller has already been ordered. Could the laser module and the linear modules or the power supply unit also have been damaged? How do I test this before I reconnect the new controller? The best way is to use the working print module. Or does anyone know where I can look?
What can be also destroyed? The touch is working but when i will move the axes nothing moves when i click on the touch.
Smoke came out of the Toolehead cable in.
(I think to 99% i have put the cable the right way in so this should be better…?)
Thanks in advance!
