Where they’re at at the top is irrelevant. How the x-axis is in relation to the bed (at printing height) is what matters. Search the forum for “tramming”. Either way it wouldn’t be affecting front to back, just side to side. And it shouldn’t matter for 3d since the auto-calibration should adjust for it. For cnc and laser that don’t have calibration then it’s an issue.
Now regarding the z-towers, are they set the same way into the indents? There have been reports of the indents not being completely machined so they didn’t fit the way they should.
Are both z-towers the same length? If you hold a level to the base do you get the same reading as across the top of the towers?
When was tramming resolved? He only indicated that he had corrected position at the top to be identical. Position from the bed is what matters - that’s tramming.
There was a problem being reported on FB for a little while where the 2 rails were traveling at different rates. The lead screws differed and that was causing problems where the brackets were moving different distances. With the x-axis removed measure the travel from top position to bottom position and check that they’re moving the same amount.
Still doesn’t affect front to back.
Sorry @Artezio but not meaning to attack you. Not my intention.
You’re an active member on this board which is definitely needed.
The majority of the time you have good input and I enjoy your sense of humor.
But if I see incorrect info being presented I’m going to correct it.
If I’m wrong, I welcome the chance to learn and get better.
-S
Same problem here. The heated plate is not exactly flat.
Fix #1 - Do the rails so the bed is steady.
Fix #2 - take some brims from a prints and use them as a wedges until you get a good print. I created a single layer square that goes to about an inch from the edge all the way around and I print that to see where the wedges need to go.
I don’t know of a better “fix”. I really miss the manual leveling on my Ender 3. So much easier to adjust if it is just a bit off. And massively less time consuming.
Note - I have had several comments in the past about how the company should fix it (on other issues), and, I don’t disagree, but, that is a dog that may never hunt, so, juryrig is my go to.
Snapmaker’s main issue is the frame, they tried to keep it lightweight which sacrificed rigidity, personally I think they should’ve gone with auxiliary guide rails like the ones in the post, it would offset the weight and spread out the weight of a solid frame through a wider footprint allowing for a better design, vs the spider web frame they came up with. They tried to improve it but people are still seeing the same issues just not as pronounced. But we are now getting off topic so I’m not going to say anything more unrelated to the current issue at hand lol.
Hi folks,
Just an update - work got crazy and I was unable to attend to this. This weekend I found some time. First thing I did was unscrew the build plate and bracket and rotate the bracket 180 deg just to see if it made any difference, plus I would have the chance to set screws back in clean and see if anything was disturbed. After rescrewing it back together, I noticed the calibration was slightly better: ie the nozzle didn’t gouge the bed quite as deeply. I quickly ran another calib. print test, and unfortunately the same issue appeared and I destroyed another printing plate trying to carve/cut the print off. Sad! However I stuck with it and returned to this fourm thread. Next up was the prox sensor. I tested the prox sensor with the pallete knife, and for sure, it worked. Moving onto “case 3” in the prox sensor page I went to adjust the vertical placement of the sensor. After moving the print head to do so, and pushing it down to the base, it was very clear the sensor was quite high. Like 3-4mm too high. I dropped the sensor, remounted the print head, and it does appear to have resolved my first layer issue! Thanks so much for all the great help, I learned quite a bit, and I expect to dive deeper into tramming and all the other details needed to keep this machine operational. Thanks again!
