I’ve gone through all the calibration settings on the teaching tech site: Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration
But I absolutely can’t eliminate the stringing completely. I’ve gotten it down to either a very fine spider-web or some slightly sharper bits that stick out the side. But I can’t get rid of them. If I try to print anything with detail the entire side is covered in webbing. I’ve tried 2 different filaments, one that gave me no trouble on a different printer. Whatever is causing the stringing is specific to the snapmaker2. My preferred slicer is S3D, but these tests are done with Gcode generated by the site linked above.
This is on an A350, with enclosure. My best results have been at 190 degrees, retraction distance ~3mm, speed 90mm/sec, 0.5 zhop.
I print petg with 1mm @ 45mm/s Retract without Z-Hop.
I guess 90mm/s is way too high, I don’t know the max speed but I guess there could be some filament grinding or slipping…
I’ve tried everything from 10mm on up. Speed doesn’t seem to be much of a factor in the webbing.
This is ridiculous. doesn’t matter what settings I use on this printer, the stringing will not go away. Is this problem just particularly bad for the Snapmaker? It was never this bad on my other printer. These settings have gotten the webbing as fine as it is, but it will just -NOT- go away completely.
Retraktion 5,4m!!! / minute ??? Thats a little bit to much I think 
is your filament wet mate
I have some stringing but that is really bad
No. Filament is dry. Heck this is southern nevada, it takes special effort to make it wet.
I’ve tried it all over the place speed wise. That’s just where is currently at because it’s where the stringing was the thinnest
I had a similar issue. Got really frustrated and pulled off the print head to check nozzle. the SM 2 came with a spare so compared it. Saw that the brass tip was worn down so I swapped them out. Has been much better since. Not for sure it’ll help, but wouldn’t hurt to check.
I guess I can check. My SN is still brand new. Thanks for the suggestion
Hello, thehouse!
Do you know what type of filament you used and for how many hours to get that nozzle looking like that?
I feel that 0.4mm compares to about 0.8mm in size:(
@ArrMiHardies, there were some nozzles which where falsely shipped, they looked like the picture of @thehouse.
But this phenomen was a early backer issue.
Is this your support left and right to your model? - looks quiet thin…
Hey @Blockmodule! I dont know how to get an actual hour count, but I got my A350 end of December, so that wear was all from the stock SM PLA spool that came with it and I still have some left. One of the things I tried was buying a spool of Prusament and Overture PLAs which all had similar results, that’s what made me check the nozzle.
Prusament > overture by a billion fold
the snapmaker black PLA filament is goofy as can be, some people have it permanently fuse to their print sheet, some people have unremovable clogs, some people have thier extruder shred it to bits. it wouldnt surprise me if it goofed up your nozzle.
invest in a couple more hotends, then buy a box of MK8 brass nozzles (.4mm) on amazon for next to nothing to keep them going.
If you zoom in on the image and look closely, you can see that the nozzle hole is indeed large.
What I notice is that the brass of the nozzle is deformed round around it.
Maybe you are using a very tight gap between the print sheet and the nozzle?
Even if the hole was a large one in the wrong place, I don’t think it would deform this much within a reel of filament.
You have just raised a clear image, so please check again if you are keeping the proper calibration distance.
yeah looks like it crashed and mushroomed out
I just checked my hot nozzle. I don’t think that it’s the problem. I haven’t even gone through 0.5k of any kind of filament yet. But I’m going to swap it out anyways. I know it bottomed out pretty bad courtesy of the gcode from the Teaching Tech site, so it can’t hurt, right? In this photo, the new one is on the left, used on the right.
It was pre-supported in the stl. Yeah, they are thin, but they worked well and did their job and used a TON less filament than the supports S3D wanted to make
Hey, I completely forgot, have a look at this thread, good luck!