thats fine, no problem.
okay one last question, what size model of snapmaker did you buy? A150, A250 or A350
A350. And donāt think I told you, thank you for spending your time to help me.
perfect. no problem, i know its frusterating when the machine seems endlessly broken and over complicated, it takes some timeā¦ its a hobby to master.
ok i will make you some g-code that you will be able to load up in luban and run. iāll have it for you a bit later and post it right here.
All right so when you get a chance try to load this gcode up and print it
its a cube without a lid printed in vase mode.
the wall thickness needs to be measured all the way around in several places.
This will help us see what your flow rate is like.
Sceptre.gcode (47.3 KB)
Ideally the walls will be .4 mm. also post a picture of it too. share your results by replying to my comment when you are done so it pings me and we can take a look together.
Ah, that not bad!
yeah it wasnt necessary to pause but its cool just the full walls in multiple places would be ok in the future
So how do you feel the quality of that print is? its a bit hard to tell
The quality looks a lot better. Iām doing another print right now with close to the same settings. I sliced with prusaslicerā¦
As u can see the thicker walls are not impressive.
The bed looks dirty but its been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Thats just how it marks on first print. Iām slowly raising the offset to stop it.
Oh, you have prusa slicer?
cool. that helps. i dont know prusa but i know it has more ability than luban.
To me the plastic looks like it extrudes pretty good, but there are a lot of little fine adjustments to perfect that.
I am kind of new to 3d printing myself, having the kind of inconsistant wall thicknesses to that degree, (which is not that bad but enough to make an observation) that maybe your linear advance could use some fine tuning.
Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration (teachingtechyt.github.io)
i think if you read this linear advance section above and try to do as it instructs you will see a major differenceā¦
After that, we are going to want to do another one for e-steps calibration, available on that same web page.
with prusa you can also use that same site to do the āflow calibrationā test as listed, that is what I had you preform to see what your wall thicknesses were actually coming out to.
Start with linear advance and try it againā¦
Iāll look into it. After this print we will be swapping over to cnc for Christmas gifts 
wife has like 20 things she wants haha. I cant even get the machine to be smooth.
Having another cnc will cut my production time down a lot. This will be my 4th cnc machine.
Thank you for all the help.
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Iām seeing similar issues with my A350 so I thought Iād chip in here rather than creating a new thread.
My first few prints were relatively small and kept to the centre of the bed so there were no problems whatsoever but Iāve recently done some larger prints (almost full bed area) and thereās a notable deviation despite doing the calibration routine a few times over. I didnāt give it too much thought, instead just assumed I need to do something else in the calibration.
Now Iāve turned to cnc mode the run off is even more noticeable - see below test engraving on traffolyte, plainly visible over just 60mm.
Looking a little closer I see that there is a consistent run off along the x-axis of approx. 1.5mm across the full travel (photos below are obviously with a constant z-value). Y-axis seems fine when checked at a few different intervals so I donāt have any concerns there.
I need to do some more checks when back in 3d print mode but Iām guessing there is a connection here and maybe shimming up the base frame might help on both fronts? Is the auto calibration in 3d printing capable of fully compensating for 1.5mm? Has anyone had any experience with shimming the frame? Would it be recommended?
That sounds more like a problem with the x-axis than the bed. Are both brackets on the z-rail all the way at the top evenly when you home? They should be parallel to the bed. If they arenāt, loosen the screws on the brackets holding on the x-rail and (with machine off) raise them to the top. Then tighten the screws alternating from one bracket to the other.
If you want to share some more photos of your machine it can help us troubleshoot too.
-S
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Brent provided this information to me recently due to a similar discovery
This method of tramming to ensure its even
I personally used a level as my spacer because its the only thing i had that was going to be straight and substantial enough.
Thanks for the pointer; must admit I hadnāt seen that topic when searching the forums but thatās the problem with so many topics on this subject and the reason I didnāt want to start another.
The x-rail certainly looks parallel to the eye but Iāll double check this before looking for something to use as spacers for tramming.
For a temporary fix on the cnc I bought a surfacing bit. And leveled my wasteboard. I actually made a 2 new wasteboards (one out of thick acrylic for 3d printing). Then manually went over full wastelands, it took some time and very messy also made like 4 passes over them. After this was done, I have about a .2 mm raised spot on a very small portion of my bed thats not level. Overall I am very pleased.
If your going to cut out a full design with cnc and worry about scaring wasteboard, throw a few sheets of paper under the project material. This is how I got away from digging into my wasteboard after I made the new ones that are flat to my machine.
The 3d printing one i attached under the hot bed. It seems to have helped a lot.
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Quickly tried this - loosening the screws and manually pushing the rails back to the stops and retightening. Big step in the right direction! Deviation in the z-offset is now down to 0.5mm from the original 1.5mm.
Guess this might clear up some of my 3d printing issues but might need to do a little better for cnc. Iām sure adding some reliable tramming will get me over the line.
For cnc your best bet is to mill the wasteboard or mill a piece of mdf on top of it.
-S
Hi,
How i can make a 11x11 manual calibrations? 
Iām a noob
Thanks
Look into the threat āBed is not levelā there is explaind everything.
So, is there a solution for build platform not flat ? I get SM2 because the built size. There is no point if canāt print big (only can print in the middle). Have anyone tried using Nylon Nut method ? Or has anyone built your own Platform ?
I have contacted support, and I got the new type platform (square one), it is even worse than original.
Now, I think my head gonna explode. 
