Leveling / First layer Problems

Hi, since a few months i have issues with the auto-leveling or leveling in generell. I think it is a problem with the leveling because of the quality of the first layer, and the fact that the printer (A350) has also driven it self into the printingbed after an auto-leveling cicle.

I have allready updated the firmware and tried other things to solve the problem. This includes heating up the printingbed before leveling, leveling by hand, auto-leveling, pushing the Z-axis to its top position aswell as changing the grid density of the leveling grid.

Oh and i sould probably mention, that sometimes the nozzle is to high and sometimes it is to low. But most of the time it is to low.

besides the obvious problem with the leveling the printer sometimes has problems with transfering the data from the usb-stick to the touchpad and sometimes even crashes. So just for you to know, i also have that problem. But I am not sure if those problems have anything to do with eachother.

Thanks already for all answers and i hope my discription was understandable.

I have the same issue because the bed of the Snapmaker is in general not good and i asked a company to make me a custom printbed and its a lot bette than the original but as you say sometimes I have the feeling the auto leveling is doing nothing I run a 11x11 grid and print then a bed level test and its just trash as if the printhead does not know the mesh or the high and low points of the bed @SnapmakerSupport @Edwin!

wich slicer do you use? maybe the error is in the settings? do you use the calibration card for the last point or a feeler gauge?

I am just using luban but from what i have already read in this forum, i should probably change to something else. And yes i use the calibration card because i don’t have a feeler gauge yet.

yeah you are very limited with changing settings in Luban. but when u using Luban this should not affect the first layer. what does the layer looks like? is the line with correct how old is your nozzle or the filament that you use? is the surface of the layer ruff or something like this?

I would say you can choose i have it all :smiley: Some are lose and others have marks of the nozzel pushing the filament to the sides. And some have both.

The nozzel is relativly new, because i had to change the whole block after a failed print basicly imbeded the nozzle block in solid plastic.

And by the way this is from the same print.

Here’s some instructions I received from support once. Frankly, you might have to wait until the latest development firmware is released as there’s a bug in the calibration that could explain your issues.

In the meantime, just use the center 100mm of printable space and nothing more, it will limit the un-levelness.

If there is something wrong with the hardware you will be best served by creating a support ticket, see here:

@Maximos the results that you are seeing are almost exactly like What I was seeing when I received my Snapmaker A350 in September of last year. By December, I was able to get an almost perfect result. It wasn’t perfect due to an issue that they have just fixed, but not yet released. The offset of the sensor was being applied, and then removed, resulting in no offset from the nozzle. If your platform isn’t that bad, you probably won’t even notice the issue. However, if your platform is severely warped like mine was, it is impossible to level.

I leveled the platform manually, and very carefully, which should only be done if you know the risks. If you break it, you will most likely void your warranty. The platform is made out of cast aluminum, which means that it is very brittle. Flexing it too much, or too many times, will cause it to fracture and fail, so do this at your own risk. Once it is flat, you can easily compensate for the Z-offset fluctuations. OR, you can wait for the firmware update to be released, which should fix the issue. You may still need to perform an 11x11 auto-level because of your platform, but it will then work.

If you haven’t already read my Required 3D Printing Calibration post, you might want to take a look at it. If all else fails, there is always the Support option, but they can’t really tell you anything different at this time. Here is another thread where we are talking about similar issues:

Bed leveling, bed wobbling, bed heat deformation… What do, Snapmaker team?

@Somnium FYI, Edwin no longer works at Snapmaker.

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Thank you guys so much. I will definitely go through the other threads and then try what you suggested.
Again, thanks a lot.

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Welcome to the forum. :grin:

ok no wonder I have such problems with the first layer too bc I already calibrated the most things except for Acceleration Tuning and always running a 11x11 grid for leveling. hope they will release it soon!
and even did a mesh of my bed via octoprint and it doesn’t look that bad.

@Somnium the difference between your lowest point and your highest point is 0.80mm, which is 2 nozzle widths. Anything greater than 0.1mm means that it would be impossible to obtain a usable print w/o mesh bed leveling. In your case, that peak in the middle means that you need to mash the filament in the center of the bed a little more than the rest of the bed, until the fixed firmware is released.

Before I fixed my platform, there was a 2.5mm variance across the entire bed, with dips or hills along the sides. I forget where mine sits now, but I think the variance is now under 0.6mm. It will be nice to see the exact same sized bead of filament laid down, across the entire build surface, for the first layer.

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Yeah i know what you mean…the snapmaker is realy frustrating. But 2.5mm is hella bad

So in fact there is no real solution to this until this bug is fixed?

Not really. If your platform doesn’t have any peaks or deep valleys, and is more rolling with smaller variances, you can get a usable level by adjusting the Z-offset while the first layer is printing. If your platform varies from the mesh by more than 0.2mm (which you can’t really see), it becomes more difficult, but can be done. Until they release the fix, it may take a lot of trial. Some people just give up use a raft, which also works.

An option is to use Tone’s tweak macro script to adjust each mesh point individually to compensate for the measurement error. It’s based around issuing M421 Q commands (Set Mesh Value | Marlin Firmware) to adjust each point a bit.

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Maximos. Question : Have you adjusted the bed sensor downwards?

That wouldn’t have any effect on the Z-offset, which is the issue here. That would only change auto-leveling, which should also change your Z-offset for auto-leveling.

He mentions he’s having auto leveling problems. If the auto leveling is too low (which he mentioned) , the nozzle pushes the bed down during auto level, causing horrific auto level offsets. I agree that it won’t fix tons if leveling by hand is also way off, I suppose.

That isn’t quite what he said. If the nozzle was hitting the bed during an auto-level I’m pretty sure he would have said something. He states that it’s both too high AND too low. When you take that into account along with the pictures that he posted, it’s a perfect example of a platform that is very warped. Adjusting the sensor when it doesn’t need to be adjusted, can make things much worse.

Here is the link for properly checking and adjusting the proximity sensor:

How to adjust the probe/proximity sensor in the 3D printing module?

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