Seen some posts here with PETG, but none that cover the basic question I have. The PEI bed, can PETG print directly into the textured PEI? On my Bambu printers I need glue stick or other adhesive/separation layer to prevent over bonding to the surface. Is the Snapmaker plate different than the Bambu ones?
I have had no issues printing with PLA and multi colour, this machine is fantastic. I want to print everything multicolor, but my painting skills are a bit laking.
Can print normally
I’ve come to use Vision Miner Nano for all my prints, especially ASA! But I use it for PLA as well. It helps keep the print on the bed while printing and it helps release the print after cooling… This stuff Rocks 
At a minimum, if you’re unsure use a Purple Glue Stick or something similar.
* Mods, please Flag and let me know if this is unacceptable!
I have an Affiliate link to Nano if you’re interested; not trying to sell anyone on anything but I would testify that this is an amazing product to use with any 3D Printer. You may be able to get a first-time buyer discount as well: Nano Polymer Adhesive– Vision Miner
I printed like 40kg of petg on my U1 without any glue or something. But I also do this on my bambu aswell. Never had problems to release it from a cold and clean textured pei.
A relatively insulated environment might help—you can make your own insulation cover, especially now in winter when ambient temperature has a big impact!
Interesting… I’ve never had an over-bonding issue with my Bambu plates, I have had issues with the Cryo Grip plates though! I love how sticky they are but also hate how sticky they are. I always find myself ditching them and going back to the tried and true textured PEI plate.
No glue or anything, ever.
My Snapmaker is the same way… I’m sure its environmental to a degree, but never had issues with adhesion on the Snapmaker plate or have had issues with prime tower adhesion.
To answer your question, I’d say your good without glue.
Yeah, it’s just a PEI bed like any other. So whether or not to use a release agent is the same toss of the dice.
I still do for parts I expect might get stubborn.
When I need bed adhesion I use either glue stick or Aquanet unscented hair spray.
You don’t need glue, maybe only on a glass bed. Wash your build plate with soap and warm water if you have printed PLA before. Always a good idea, right? 
If you are using the Snapmaker PETG Snorca profile (which I accidentally did because it is listed first in the U1 menu), see that the default value is zero. That will warp like hell!
Set the bed temperature to 70 °C.
And before glue try hairspray. Try Got2b GLUED, smells like 3DLAC
Yes, it’s the same issue. Everyone who said they dont have an issue to release prints are kind of correct. I never have issues getting a PETG print off the plate; the issue is if a print fails at the first layer, or if you use a brim. Basically, anything that is too thin to pop off when being on the plate it’s a heck of a lot more difficult to get off, up to the point I had to use a heat gun to soften, or rather, melt off the plate. Glue stick make a PETG release easy.
Take the plate out, let it cool down, and peel it off. Use the scraper. Of course, there are some blended PETG filaments that can cause problems, like PETG Matte. A heat gun or cooling the plate down in the fridge could help.
Try soaking the failed print in 90%+ alcohol. Then gently scrape it with a razor blade scraper. Be gentle you don’t want to gouge the PEI coating.
Thank you to everyone who has provided some tips. I checked the bed temp and it was set to 80C which I think is a bit warm, but the results were great.
I was successful with printing some small figurines with PETG-HF from Bambu. It was still fairly stuck on, but nothing that would damage the bed. A small piece of the PETG-HF stuck to the bed after print removal, but no damage to the bed. Cleared the bed off with a plastic razor blade scraper and gave it a wipe with 90% IPA and the white residue under a few of the models came right off.
Going forward I will use Vision Minor, which I have used on my smooth Bambu High Temp plates with great success. This is where I found the PETG-HF purge line damaged the bed after repeated printing. It makes sense as Bambu switched their PETG to a Matte finish when they added PETG-HF.
Awesome stuff and can’t go wrong with a little Nano