I am sorry, but the translation into English on this description is pretty bad. I’d love to try this out too see if I can get it to work, but seeing as I can barely understand what its being said, curious if anybody else has tried this and if you have better luck explaining it.
This is what I posted before I saw that they had posted a similar set of instructions:
I posted this in the thread about the module digging into the build plate, but this is also how I finally got my bed level issues worked out, and started getting practically perfect first layers without any hassle. I’m able to start a print and walk away without much worry now.
One of the big key bits for me was the sensor position. I had to lower it down so that it was able to detect the metal in the build surface more consistently.
These are the steps I used:
- Have the machine powered off.
- Attach your print module to the bottom half of the mounting bracket. Basically attach it so that the top screws are mounted where the bottom screws would usually goes. Yes, this means that your print module is hanging very low. Do NOT try to run your machine like this for obvious reasons. The following steps are all done with the power off. This is so that the module is level and steady, and the sensor screw is accessible.
- Manually position the X & Y axis more towards their centers so that when you lower the Z axis the print head is over the bed. Carefully lower it until the nozzle is just touching the plate.
- Use something that is 1mm thick (a credit card perhaps), and adjust the sensor down to where it is touching this. The screw is on the back of the module, the bottom left if you are looking at it from behind.
- Re-attach the print module back in the proper spot. (Do NOT attempt to use the machine before doing this step)
3 Likes
Hi, our technical support has revised the description since your feedback. Please check to see if it makes sense now. 
@JKC20 I used @Kerrida instructions, but yes, this does look better. Worth noting that I don’t think I’ve ever seen the “red dot”
1 Like
The red dot appears on the the sensor. I usually watch for it from the right hand side of the machine.
1 Like
Two things here I’m not conscious about.
- do I have to adjust the sensor in every case, I mean also if the autoleveling is working? I don’t understand the sentence “I am afraid that you may need to adjust the proximity sensor before you use it.”
-in the guide from @kerrida the printer has to be off during the whole procedure. In the guide provided by @Edwin one of the pictures is showing the printer control?! So do I have to do this manually (moving the head by hand) or do I have to switch on the printer somewhere within the procedure and use the touchscreen??
As my guide has you move the module to where it is only held on by two screws it ends up being well below where the machine expects it. You could use the controls to lower the axis down, but it’s too risky IMO. You can safely lower it manually with the machine powered off while making this adjustment.
Once you have the sensor height adjusted, move the module back to it’s proper place and continue on as normal.
As an update, I’ve no longer needed to worry about setting the Z off-set via g-code with the newer firmwares.
2 Likes
The guide shows what looks like a calibration tool under the sensor and nozzle.
Where can I get this?
1 Like
I hadn’t noticed that until you pointed it out.
It looks like a piece of plastic with one end milled down, presumably by 1mm. The exact height difference in their gauge would be good to know, for those of us with the capacity to make one.
And yes, it should be included in that snazzy toolkit that comes with the SM2.
I agree that it would be awesome to have one included or provide an stl for us to mill or print one.
I have had my SM A350 for 4 months and have not been able to get a print out and I am getting really frustrated with this crazy calibration stuff.
1 Like
I know it’s too late to say thanks but thanks!
Wanted to post a quick follow-up. I removed a clogged nozzle to clean it, so I had to adjust the sensor setting again.
I learned a few things from the last time, and this is the process I used:
- Ensure the nozzle is lower than the sensor
- Lower the nozzle to the bed until it touches (prevents from freely moving) the calibration card
- Place a 1mm gauge block under the sensor
- Loosen the sensor and lower until it touches the gauge block. Tighten the sensor
- Raise 10mm, then 1mm, then lower 10mm, then 1mm, finally using 0.1mm until the nozzle touche the card
- If the gauge block cannot be slid under the sensor, it is too low; if light is visible between the sensor, it is too high; in either of these cases, repeat 3-5 until the sensor is correctly located.
A couple of notes: The housing for my sensor shifts a bit after a blobbed print, hence the need to retry it a few times until there is a stable setting. I found the gauge block on ebay for something like ten bucks; there are a few of them, probably packaged with a wayward instrument for calibration purpose. You can certainly spend a lot more on a 1mm gauge block if you order from a reputable source.
2 Likes
Is there any video tutorial how to level the sensor on the dual extrudor correctly?
Its more or less the same like original leveling with the calibration sheet, its not described here, but this is the faq sheet of the dualextruder Calibrating the 3D Printer | Snapmaker Wiki
1 Like