The print head for my A350 has started to malfunction. During a print, it will start “clicking” loudly, which is the audible evidence that the filament is not being fed properly. I tried cleaning the feeder out since there was a small amount of dust, that had no effect. The hot end nozzle is not jammed, as starting a new print work just fine - for a while, anyway. What can I do to fix the malfunctioning feed mechanism?
It could be that you will need support’s assistance on this, but might as well cover all the basics first.
What do your retraction settings look like?
What kind of filament do you have? Type and brand.
Are you using an enclosure?
What are you doing for spool mounting solution? Where is it mounted?
What does the filament look like when you unload it? Any pictures you can take?
Retraction settings are the Luban defaults. I’m using the Snapmaker PLA filament, no enclosure. The spool is mounted on the included spool arm at the top of the Z axis.
this is the unloaded filament. It looks the same as when I unloaded filament three weeks ago before this problem occurred.
Do you have any different filament by chance?
The snapmaker filament in the box causes all kinds of problems.
Not saying for sure this is the case but i would not rule it out and in my (ill informed amateur) opinion is probably the issue.
It looks particularly worn out (it always gets chewed up a bit but it looks pretty flat towards the back before it goes back to regular shape), which makes sense if it is slipping, but which came first the chicken or the egg
Only trying a different filament could say for sure, after a good puff of duster or something in there
if you hit the load button with the door open, you can brush the gear as it rotates with a small paintbrush or something. while filament can create dust, its pretty minor at most especially after a short period of use.
Almost everyone who uses that filament that came with the machine has some kind of problem, clogging, over adhesion, you name it. Mine seems like it has almost some kind of rubber in it, which i could see the gear shredding up.
outside of a different spool, support will need involved, and i am certain they will ask you to try a different spool first before they would send any replacement part.
maybe hit up amazon for some amazon basics pla at the very least, try not to buy some total garbage but you dont necessarily need to get matterhackers or prusament at this time either.
also be aware that almost every spool i open seems to have some moisture in it which is a pain in the ass in its own right, but you can bake that out.
I have several spools of Hatchbox filament - Hatchbox works like a charm in my Creality CR-10. I’ll try that filament and see what happens.
nice good call, meanwhile im gona show u a pic of my unloaded filament
alot harder than it should be to get good focus on this, damn camera phones.
anyhow, as you can see, it is quite different
please let us know how the test goes!
When someone is having problems with their filament feeding and the answer to the question “What kind of filament are you using?” is “black Snapmaker filament that came with it” the solution usually seems to be “try a different filament”
That being said, in most other cases, I’d try upping the nozzle temp 5º and check your z-offset. If it’s too tight it will block the end and keep filament from extruding. If your nozzle is clogged try a cold pull.
-S
-S
1 Like
It would appear that the hot end is in fact jammed - with the nozzle heated and the door open, I can’t even push filament out manually, which explains the slippage of the filament when it fails to advance. The only instructions for changing the hot end I’ve seen are for the Snapmaker Original 3d print head, the 2.0 head is very different. Can anyone direct me to documents on how to change the hot end of the Snapmaker 2.0?
I seems that if something is posted publicly enough, I can’t find it without first asking a question I shouldn’t have had to ask in the first place. https://shop.snapmaker.com/blogs/blog/another-new-feature-added-upgraded-design-of-the-snapmaker-2-0-3d-printing-module-test-progress-1
The hotend can be swapped around - theres a lil set screw inside (on the aluminum part right behind the access door) you can loosen up to drop it out of the module, then you unplug it and plug the new one in.
however, you can also try to clear the nozzle. or replace the nozzle itself instead of the whole hotend.
clogged nozzles are not uncommon. having spare nozzles on hand is a good idea, and often times buying a pack of mk8 nozzles from amazon .04 output will come with needles for cleaning them out
you can also do a cold pull, which involves pushing a filament in and letting it cool while pushing on i, then heat it back up and yank at it while its still warming, but thats a trick i havent really mastered yet.
you should have at least one spare hotend from the tool box available, and i would probably buy a few to have incase something happens to it, they are cheap enough.
the snapmaker pla in the box is very prone to clogging as well as over adhesion and all sorts of issues, so yeah to back to your better stuff.
Somewhere snapmaker has a video on swapping out the hotend but i dont know where its posted at.
Video on replacing Snapmaker 2 hot end is in this link, no idea why it’s in Google docs and quite hard to find.
Just came across a more “official” one here when looking at something else.
