I like it! Im gona go dig out my crimpers to see if by odd chance one happens to have this connector, if not then I am doing this instead!
Your local hobby shop should have either of those connectors.
Both look like standard rc model connectors.
-S
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Regarding the diode,
above you show one end tied into + and the other end tied into -
Im not quite sure I understand how that is done, not a diode guy really…
I thought the diodes were supposed to just go on the positive leg stripe side up.
Are you twisting the under side of the diode, black before and black after together, then slicing it into over side of diode, under and over on red?
Essentially just crossing the diode between the two polarities?
Pardon this blobby soldier job, its been about 10 years since ive done it
im gona clean it up a bit before doing the shrink wrap if i have it right
This wont have any effect on the existing circuit?
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My splitter as wired was able to act as a proper y harness between the two fans (from the black port anyhow) but that doesn’t mean i have the diode right
This raises a couple of more questions
This should be plugging into the white fan (fan 1) connector or the black fan (fan 2)?
If i turn the nozzle on, the fan should be on correct? or will it only turn on if gcode tells it to turn on?
If i plug it into the black one (Fan 2) I am able to get it to run by heating up the nozzle from the snapmaker touchscreen. This is not the case from Fan 1
Just in case anyone is reading about this… that my box had 2 fans in it. i reversed polarity on one and not the other.
It turns out the stock wiring on the fan i purchased matches the snapmaker, so the reversed fan wires are not necessary.
as such, who knows what you will be shipped when sellers change the part, you will have to compare the connectors to see if the swap is necessary or not.
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I did it like this, too.
My understanding of this diode ist that it protects the hardware against dammed up power created while stopping the fan which also acts like an inductive generator. It stops the backflow. So the placement is okay.
But maybe your cables are too long for beeing tucked in the device.
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There’s a lot to unpack in those posts.
The diode is connected any way you please as long as it’s located here in the circuit, in green, so the collapsing field currents when shutting off the fan can circulate as drawn in orange. The stripe on the end of the diode matches the stripe in the drawing.
As long as it’s connected as such there is no negative effect. There is a positive effect, suppressing voltage surges.
Fan1, white is the correct fan. The hotend cooling fan that is automatic is fan2, this will not turn on automatically, it is controlled solely via gcode.
I did not have to reverse the polarity of my fan either.
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Very good,
I will reassemble my spare print head with the splicer in place and give this a whirl this weekend
Hi all,
its incredible!!!
I am not able to get this thing working.
My fan will spin for a short time and then it goes down, the orignal fan does not.
I have both fans connectet and its the 24V version and for its own its working!
im very curious about that.
Any hints??
Hmmmm that doesn’t sound familiar. Would it be possible to try just the new fan and see if it works on it’s own?
If you had a bench power supply you could test the fan outside of the tool.
I can’t tell if the fan is broken, it’s a circuit error, or something else.
Just to be sure, there are two fans inside the 3dp module, the added fan should be wired to Fan 1 with the y-splitter and diode, and keep in mind that it will not rotate unless g-code tells it to, the other fan will be on all the time though.
Outside of that - if that is how you have it, yes i would definitely try to power the fan up on its own for awhile and let it blow. you can temporarily plug it into the fan 2 port if you dont have a 24vdc power supply handy. Perhaps for safety sake you should unplug the hotend during this experiment so that the internal cooling not being on will not damage the printhead from overheating. perhaps try to run the blower fan for an extended duration to see if something is wrong with it that causes it to stop.
If you are finding that the fan works properly under 24vdc power, it must be related to the wiring, perhaps a loose connection in a connector or soldier joint. have you added tape or heat shrink to any exposed wiring from soldering? possibly shorting out someplace too.
I am a very short time away from sharing an additional accessory for installing the new blower fan to try to make things a little easier and neater. just about finished with some testing then i can print out my latest revision, and if it works out i will share it 
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Good day everyone!
It’s time to unveil my contribution to the blower mod upgrade!
Starting with brent’s printed mod, the blower itself, the diode, the double sided tape and the pack of connectors with wire leads, I completed the work as indicated above with success.
I have now taken this a little bit further.
In order to get the wires inside of the print head neatly, while also allowing room for the connector and excess wire, I have created a replacement side plate for the module.
Keep in mind, I have done very little modeling and was really struggling with using fusion360 (interface is very unintuitive and at some point they just stop letting you edit the shape without starting over) so the radius of the corners is not an exact match, but first lets take a look at the original vs my new one:
Seemingly quite similar, grill holes, screw holes, general shape all present.
However, the depth is a bit different - there is an outer flange to space the OD of the new bracket out to allow room for the connector to fit above the circuit board, and theres also a notch for the wires to feed through!
So what you will want to do is find some quite thin filter medium as the original has. In my case, what was readily available was a coffee filter. I cut this to size with some scissors
Added a small number of drops of super glue to the bracket around the grill in order to place the fix the filter medium to the bracket
Next, I took the connector coming out of the Y splitter and conncted to to the blower, and simply folded the wires up in such a way that the lid would fit on top.
Using the existing screws, I placed the new top on (feeding the wires through the notch) and fastened it into place
The holes are counter sunk deeper to accomodate the extra thickess of the material, and on a 2nd revision i opened them up a hair to make it easier to insert the screws.
From there, complete the installation as intended with the double sided tape, and you are good to go!
I was going to upload it directly to this string but it is too large, so here is a link to Thingiverse, categorized as a remix for Brent’s blower mod.
Snapmaker 2 3DP Module Wire Entry Cover by MooseJuice1983 - Thingiverse
The next step in the evolution I would guess is to combine brent’s mod with this face, to eliminate the need for tape, but it could be a difficult print and may not be worth the hassle!
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That’s great, excellent work!
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Very nice!
Looks like something for on the todo list.
An alternative approach could have been to just print the spacer in between where you can guide the cable through. And still use the original side. That does require new (longer) M2 screws. (but since I already bought a box of those anyway 
)
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Yeah, that is true and i considered it, but why buy screws when i can make the ones i have work hehe
plus it was an exercise for me to do 3d modeling more than anything
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How did you attache the separated blower piece? Just glue it to the fan, or some two sided tape?
Thank you,
Yeah if you read through the thread, brent recommended a double sided tape which is the exact material i purchased (as it is removable but still holds well)
He also suggests not disconnecting the original wire, and instead make a y-splitter so both of them run and adding a certain diode to prevent voltage from the fan getting to the controller.
Thank you for sharing your design,
I had printed the combined wall and side plate with separated nozzle. I will use double sided tape for the Fan… It may be possible to attach the fan nozzle to the fan body with some dremel work.
The separated duct piece was glued onto the bracket piece after printing
