Yep, right. Also, check the connector that connects the hotend with the interior - you may need to pull a bit on the cable of the hotend.
I swaped the hotend with the one in the toolbox and now the nozzle temp is constant 
@nivekmai @Hauke Thank you very much for your help! Here below how I connected the fan, which seem to correspond to label “Fan 1” on the other side of the plate. Did I do this wrong?
Hmm, I didn’t pull the board out of the head, but looking at the posts, fan1 is the right one:
Oh, that looks like the new head version! But I suppose Fan1 should be perfect… On the right of the print head there’s the hotend cooling fan. How does this behave on command M106 Sxxx? Expected behaviour would be: It would do nothing. If you can control that fan with M106, definitely the fans are interchanged. However, the color of the plugs suggests that you did everything right…
how much cooling do you use after the mod in cura settings?
I recall I used 100% after the first layer, but I wasn’t experiencing the layer separation issues some others were having - they ran at 25-50% to fix that. I think my nozzle temp was on the high side to make sure there’s good adhesion.
ok thx. ran it at 50% is still more than without the mod I guess ?
Yea, even 30% will likely flow more air than before. If you wired both fans in together you should be able to go down to 10% or so and the big fan won’t spin and the little one will more some air.
good I will try it! bc I run my first print after the mod and the edges of little overhangs are warping a little bit up so I think the pla cools too fast.
but I was able to geht a good overhang test I think 
For bridging you can check out this too: Introducing The Experimental Bridging Settings - Ultimaker Cura - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
The experimental bridge settings let you run 100% cooling for long bridging, I’ve done some pretty long bridges (as a test only, never in an actual print).
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I would be interested in someone with the new version of the printhead running the bridging and overhang tests as well. 70 degree overhang looks good quality - that’s pretty hard.
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It can get a really clean 70d overhang, but only on the side facing the cooling (and depending on the filament). I am still going to apply this mod to the newer toolhead.
The v1 toolhead had cooling on both sides, but the newer one only has it on the left side. Unfortunately the plastic that provided the 2nd exhaust wasn’t removed… its just a chunk of plastic doing nothing, apart from annoyingly getting in the way if you want to cool it from opposite sides.
Speaking of opposing cooling… I reckon there is enough room under the X axis for another blower 5015… Just the current draw to think about.
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thank you. im pretty satisfied with the results
This is a great tweak to the original design. I tried the spike version first, but its mighty tight!
Had to use the screw hole version instead.
Finally managed to print the Dodge Charger from Fab365 with some ERYONE filament. I couldn’t print it before, it curled so bad I was worried I would snap off the leveling sensor.
Fwiw, I would avoid ERYONE, it curls much more than esun pla+. It could be my batch, but I’ve had two rolls I’ve been less than pleased with now.
now running a print with 10% cooling but I have the feeling that my cooling settings has no influence on the print
Do you want to provide a gcode with settings youd like to see this with? I dont know what file etc havent been paying attention, but id be glad to execute this with my new print head for science. currently almost all my materials are good at 200-205. i havent printed anything for several weeks so it might get me started again lol
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