3D Print head - High Quality Mode - Hitting filament on bed

Snapmaker 2.0
1

I just received my SnapMaker 2.0 and am relatively new to 3D Printing. I successfully printed something of my own design already. I wanted to see the difference between the ‘Fast’ and ‘High quality’ settings provided by Luban. The the very first bead of filament that it put down must have been slightly higher than .08mm because on the next time over that spot, the print head hit it and you could hear and see it get jarred from the collision. I tried to pause the print and file the little bit down, but that didn’t work.

Is that normal?
Is that ok for the printer?
Would the solution be to print a skirt under the first layer, so that any initial thickness is outside the print area?

Thanks!

2

Do the teachingtechyt extruder calibration, you’re probably over extruding (from what I’ve seen, SM always ships over extruding) so the first layer might be a bit bulged, hence the head runs into it on the second layer.

3

Most people have the opposite problem and the e-steps are set too low.

Was this a repeatable thing? Did you try it and have it do it multiple times?

-S

4

Maybe I’m thinking the wrong thing, I think e-steps are always low, and flow is always high? I remember doing the test with vase mode and having to dial back the flow.

5

Yeah, I stopped the print after the second layer, and restarted from scratch. It over extruded the second time too so I stopped right away again. I will look into adjusting the feed to avoid over extruding.

Thanks!

6

Maybe I’m thinking the wrong thing, I think e-steps are always low, and flow is always high?

I noticed that too. I suspect the lowered e-steps are to accommodate some aspect of the extruder design that causes it to over-extrude. I generally have to set the flow at 90% after calibrating the e-steps.

7

That’s an interesting idea, but seeing as everyone’s e-steps are so different, I’d argue it’s just a lack of proper calibration in the factory. I would think it’d be easier to properly calibrate e-steps, and then just have luban compensate for the flow issue than to attempt to calibrate the e-steps to the extruder (also, that’d mean they’re calibrating the e-steps to the installed hotend… which is probably invalidated once you change the hotend).

8

I’m planning on putting the E steps calibration number on a sticker on the head.
When my spare comes, same thing.
If one goes down, I swap, enter the proper cal, and carry on.

Loving this modular design!