Someone at work asked me to print one for their shed.
So, i have it set to 100% infill… yet its not infilled. there are large caps around the infill and the wall, and theres a section that tapers up towards the top and the taper is also hollow.
Also for solid object I recommend using the wall settings(set for 100 wall layers) rather then 100% infill doing so generally makes the part stronger for the same amount of plastic.
Really? Interesting. I’ve used 6 walls with 100% because it “felt good”. I recall CNCKitchen doing tests and anything that was 100% infill was leaps and bounds stronger than anything else, although he didn’t specify if he used walls or infill settings on his test parts.
I will say it depends a little bit on the geometry of the part and your settings (like everything 3d printed) but yes it tends to get better lamination than infill. Pluss the extruded filament is stronger in the direction of the strands. So the concentric nature helps. Lastly it tends to look a bit better because you don’t get overlap between the walls and infill… I haven’t tested 100% infill with a concentric pattern vs 100% with extra walls. They may be very similar.
And yes, solid pla is almost unbelievably strong. I can only imagine the strength of solid fiberglass reinforced or carbon fiber reinforced pla. I have heard claims that they can be as strong as aviation grade aluminum.
I think the concentric may work as well as solid walls but I haven’t tested or seen any tests on it vs walls. I think the wiggle adds strength when below 100% infill (probably plays off the same physics as an I beam vs a solid beam) You could get away with 80% rather than 100%. But the advantages would not be in every direction (just like an I beam). Rectilinear is what I use for most of my structural parts above 55% infill but below 100% and works well. I would be interested if they had a concentric wiggle.
I’m also a big fan of what is called in cura “alternate extra wall” it adds 1 additional wall every other layer to trap infill inbetween wall layers. I find it can add a substantial amount of rigidity and strength to a print.
I think if they had a version of it with an adjustable number of extra walls it could be a very effective way of saving filament while creating very strong prints.
I think for speed and strength one of the best is the “cubic subdivision” its similar to the hexigon/riangle pattern but it shifts the layers to enclose each shape (forming compleate 3d shapes inside the object)
Oh right, I’ve seen that one but never used it. I do recall, now that you mention it, tri hex is pretty ideal for 2D loads in X/Y, but Cubic Sub is better for 3D.
Wow thats nifty cura doesn’t have the option to pick the rotation angle. It rotates 90 degrees by default. I would think you gain the most strength in the direction of the long runs, so adjusting it to get better strength in all directions would be possible. The exact degree of change would depend greatly on the geometry of the part.
I thing cubic subdivision gives the best 3d strength to weight I have seen, but can cause some pretty big gaps, so it’s best used at higher infill rates
You might be right, never looked at that setting. Let’s see
I printed this with ABS cuz I was no tsure what he was going to hang on it, but if solid PLA is super durable that would make this alot easier for me if he wants more.
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