Wouldn’t that be somethin’ 
2 Likes
i want to test laser and cnc before my 1 year is up in Dec.
will those work with this issue (guess i am mostly thinking about laser focus)
I don’t see why it wouldn’t.
I think when you set focus on laser or work origin on cnc it would be compensating for it.
Worst case scenario you just add (subtract?) .2mm to the work origin.
-S
cool i will try it,
FII the issue is the 0.2 varies over the bed positioning and is not even consistent in a fixed XY spot (as such any give point on the base can right or at -0.2 depending)
I wouldn’t expect the laser to work consistently with the bed going up and down +/-.2mm. Unless the focal length is lengthen to increase the beam waist (at the expense of reduced peak intensity) I think ~.5mm variation will result in a significant reduction in power that will be noticeable in cutting consistency and engraving darkness.
The bed needs to not wobble. Even without a wobbling bed paper and other materials are not perfectly flat and may experience inconsistencies as a result of out of focus issues.
The compensation of course would be slightly slower work speeds and increased power to ensure adequate cutting.
2 Likes
Since the laser doesn’t actually physically interact with the bed the way that either 3d or cnc does I don’t think you’ll find that the wobble is as pronounced. Especially if you do a horizontal path.
And if it doesn’t work consistently, that’s okay. You should just make sure that it actually does work at all because some people have had non-functioning ones or problems with the camera (although that function is pretty useless anyway).
By the time you’re doing multiple passes and step-downs for cutting the original focus becomes less important. If you’re trying to do the least passes, then yes it matters, but if you don’t mind running a few extra passes, or slower, it should still work fine.
I’ve done engraving on plenty of rough wood pieces that have had at least a .5mm variation in height and they’ve turned out just fine. Definitely can see some shading differences if I’m not going very dark, but well within an acceptable range. (for vector and b&w. Grayscale is more finicky)
-S
1 Like
just an update for those intrested
Had good (email) conversation with support, though they think ‘bed levelling will account for this up/down movement’ I have pointed out if the up/down movement is consistent for any give fixed XY coordinate that would be true, but in this case because the height varies for any give XY coordinate that this is not true in this case. Haven’t pointed out to them the issues wrt to laser / cnc where bed levelling isn’t AFAIK used. Will test the laser module this weekend.
Will keep this thread updated as I get more info.
What in tarnation.
That’s not true at all.
They really are off their rocker
1 Like
indeed, thats what i was trying to say 
i am starting to wonder how many folks first layer issues have been compounded by the same issue - but where it is moving / up down even less than mine…
The phrase “weaseling out of” comes to mind. What an assertion to hang their hat on.
> Sure there’s clearly Z movement in the Y plane, but our bed levelling is M A G I C so you’re fine.
The mind wanders…
1 Like
I assume if you (others) do the same test i did with the square there are folks that can confirm their base never moves up and down… ? … ?
Mine does not move up and down at all.
Here’s two videos, one on the front and the other on the back of the bed
Hilariously, if you look closely in the second video you can see the height changing while moving in the same direction because the laser platform is not very flat (not that it really needs to be perfectly flat, just had higher expectations for aluminum extrusion)
I can’t remember if I said this earlier but it sounds like you need to tighten up the carriages which really is not that hard to do
1 Like
thanks appreciate that, good to see a good one!
yeah you did say, i am waiting on support to tell me to open the rails or not…
i don’t think this matters, FYI my test was doing two to three 10mm jogs in each y direction)
They haven’t been asking for rails to be sent back and there really isn’t a way that they could tell even if you do open them up (unless you break a limit switch). So I wouldn’t be too worried about waiting for support. Also the procedure is listed openly on their website.
-S
1 Like
@sdj544 its less the warranty angle and more, do what they ask when they ask angle - i have learnt that support folks (in general) often need to work through their procedures and books (aka assumptions) before one can get them to step back and think. As someone who once did phone support at start of my career i am ok with that
1 Like
@scyto bruh, I know how it feels. My entire family line is amazing at troubleshooting. After all, we are part pollock and we screw EVERYTHING up at one point or another no matter what it is, we have to be good at troubleshooting or we will have lynch mobs after us for constantly bugging support people lmao.
2 Likes
as you were asking about spaghetti detective, i tried, it works on spaghetti - don’t know about blobs
took me 6 tries to print this part, had to switch back to snapmaker build plate and lower build plate temp to prevent warping - with this hatchbox seems higher plate temps = more warping.
Ok, measured the bearings:
Right side y rail
White end bearing 34.09
Grey end bearing 34.05
Left side y rail
White end bearing 34.00
Grey end bearing 34.00
Is this enough to cause wobble?
Also wasn’t paying enough attention removing them – is the white end to the front or the grey end to the front?
Couldn’t tell you based on dimensions, the rails are not that tight of a tolerance. It should be snug when inserted.
I don’t remember which side does in first. Maybe pop the cap off the X axis and take a look.