Could someone on the SnapMaker team who knows tell me if the Calibration Routine sets the Z height at each calibration point where it sits or does it subtract the thickness of the calibration card? @whimsycwd @Rainie
1 Like
Interesting question, My thoughts are where the Z axis sits. You could test by doing a calibration with a 5mm thick object instead of the card and do a simple print and see what happens.
Doug
Yeah, I also thought about just measuring the distance with a feeler gauge after calibration. I was just wondering why many people have problems with the filament adhering to the plate. I’ve had very little trouble with that. Maybe some live in a more humid climate. I live in a dry climate. A good survey to take perhaps?
My thought is that their calibration may be off. Too thick or too thin of a first layer could be the cause. If their plate is not flat that could be a contributing factor. I made a bracket to hold a dial indicator to check how flat my plate is. It checked out pretty good. Within about .001” or so (.0254mm).
1 Like
Hi Tony
I too have wondered why so many people have issues. I started using my Snapmaker at the end of January and since then I have printed hundreds of items. I do not use sprays, glues, tapes and I do not even clean the bed. I have replaced the bed sheet once because i tore a hole in the first one with the spatula after numerous prints. I have replaced once nozzle because I broke the filament off in it and that was before all the helpful hints of clearing things out were added to the forum. I always check the bed screws and that they are tight.
Only on a couple of occasions have I had problems with adhesion and that was me trying different filaments and temperatures. I did many prints with a RAFT base and now I use mostly BRIM or nothing. I use a feeler gauge to do the calibration and I calibrate about every 5 major prints.
I think many projects fail because of temperatures, calibration and speed of print. Too fast a speed can be a big issue. It is a puzzle. Environmental factors can be issue such a cool breezes hitting the Snapmaker. the use of the new enclosure might see a lot of problems disappear.
Keep having fun
Doug
2 Likes
Hi @doug ,
Could you tell me more about the feeler gauge and how you use it with your calibration ( any details would be great)? Admittedly, this is the first that I have heard of it. I haven’t had any issues with prints adhering lately but always looking to know more.
Thanks
oz
1 Like
A feeler gauge is just a precision steel thickness measurement tool.
Like say this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Universal-26-Piece-Measuring-Thickness/dp/B00T85ANNW
Since paper is a little compressible, a feeler gauge would be more consistent.
1 Like
So I just took the “SKIRT” that is printed and measured it with a micrometer. The first layer is suppose to be .3 mm. The skirt measured .36mm. So that likely means my calibration is thick by .06mm or .002" or about one tick with the .5mm increment.
Seems like a simple way to check calibration. I guess best would be to print a skirt around the perimeter of the work space along with a cross through the middle and then measure how consistent the thickness is.
1 Like
Hi @ogundy
As the good @Tone said, it is just an alternative to using paper. I use 0.05mm successfully, I would not go smaller than this, in fact 0.06mm is probably better. If you are not aware, feeler gauges can be combined e.g. 0.05mm + 0.01mm. I find using the feeler gauges to be more consistent to using paper which can be compressed through use of expanded in humid environments.
Doug
2 Likes
1 Like
Hey Guys,
I struggled with my Snapmaker until I hit the sweet spot and it worked great until the extruder stopped and then I had to replace it. Instead of going through the pain of re-calibration with paper, I bought a feeler gauge and set it to .051 mm and so far so good. Just like it was before I had to replace the head.
During the calibration, I move the head down until I could just feel it dragging on the feeler gauge. I could easily slide the blade of the gauge under the head with no resistance. Any lower and you have to force the blade.
Thanks for the suggestion - the gauge was a great idea. Highly recommend it to anyone. Oh and if you are looking for it, car shops like Autozone have them for about $6.
3 Likes
Hi @psellers
Doug the newbie here, I made the original suggestion to use the feeler gauges, I do need to point out that I have learned heaps from all the great suggestions from forum members. We all benefit from the sharing of ideas.
Have a great week
Doug