I think it’s mounted by a set screw. (I’m not a mechanical engineering but I just check the meaning of “set screw”, yes, there is a set screw in the connector )
That opens up some possibilities for people to potentially add their own tools. I will sit back and see what the adventurous type do. As a newbie I will be struggling to learn all that the Snapmaker can do in ‘stock form’
So the problem with it being mounted by a set screw is that it doesn’t create a perfect alignment due to any play in the hole fit. Now, if the set screws for both the motor shaft and the tool mount are on the same side, and the play is exactly the same for both holes, then it could result in a potentially perfect alignment. Can you see if the two set screws are on the same side or opposite sides?
Yeah, I just ask our mechanical engineer, he told me YES~
@Tone You’re really experienced and cool! Maybe we would ask you for help in future days
@Noah and @Rainie,
My set screw has stripped using the provided hex key. The screw is now rounded out and I can’t loosen it or get it out. My V groove cutting bit is now stuck in the brass coupling.
Can this brass coupling be easily removed from the motor and replaced? Can someone from Snapmaker send me a replacement coupling?
I have sent an email to support yesterday about this issue.
I believe the brass coupling is also held on to the motor shaft by a similar set screw which means you could remove the coupling from the motor to fix it or replace it. What I have done in the past with hex screws that are “enlarged” is take the next larger allen wrench and grind a taper on it so that it will start to fit into the enlarged set screw. I’ve also drilled out the old set screw using a drill size that is not so large that it removes the thread. With set screws that small it takes a “careful feel” to know when your tightening it enough but not so much that it strips out either the thread or the hex. Just my eyeball guess is that it is a M3 screw which would require a drill of about 5/54" or 2mm.
We will check and give you a solution, before that, you can try @Tone 's method. I think he is professional on mechanism. If it doesn’t work, we will provide replacement.
I was not able to get it off using Tone’s suggested method. I was able to get the coupling off the motor shaft but the bit is still stuck in the coupling. Please provide a replacement ASAP. Thanks
Stripped my set screw, thought the other coupler was a replacement but realized it was meant for a larger shaft size. Thought I might upgrade the coupler to a collet holding ER11, but the shaft size of the motor was 2mm, I was expecting maybe a 6mm.
Designed out a new spindle holder in Fusion 360 for a larger spindle motor that I’m speed controlling externally, but at least I’m on my way to a quiet cut and a collet.
How is the current motor controlled? I noticed a three wire on the motor side and a PCB connected to the RJ-45.
I’ve had some success 3D Printing a new spindle holder for a cheap 450mm or 420mm motor commonly found on inexpensive engravers. I’m using a speed controller from Inventables.com to externally control the spindle, while my old spindle is plugged in but with removed M3 start code on my jobs as not to accidentally spin it.
I’ve beefed up the spindle holder to 100% infill now that I confirmed it fits. I’ll post the results of the job later today.
ciao quando potrebbe essere disponibile l’ampliamento per il cnc ? grazie
I backed your Kickstarter (and love my Snapmaker btw!) partly because I was hopeful that your very smart all metal design would be capable of someday cutting metals. I’m glad to hear this is something you are considering as well! I would love to own this machine!
I would like to see a larger spindle and motor attachment for this setup.
I also own a miniature mill and lathe from Sherline (https://sherline.com) and have some experience milling metals. I would strongly advise you consider using a standard machine taper (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper) for the spindle. The Sherline (which is a relatively small spindle like your machine) uses MT1 (Morse taper 1).
Using a standard machine taper will allow for a variety of existing machining tools and collets to be used by your system. This will greatly improve the product!
I’m a hobbyist, I definitely am looking for the stronger CNC machine (which I also hope can be utilized by the OTHER two modules for larger lasering and 3D Prints) as my next upgrade.
As a hobbyist, I’m not looking to utilize this for business, which means my needs are different, it can be slower, it can be less “industrial”.
Some example use cases I’d have:
- Laser engraving on my Macbook.
- CNCing on aluminum. Youtube Neo7CNC videos, stupid shit like that.
- Using my existing Dremel bits.
If you wanna have a even greater sussex in CNC, there is some must in my mind.
1, Spindle must carry a ER 11 collect or like that.
2. No fixed spindle speed.
3. Make Z holder a little more solid.
4. Software must have build in bed level, IF table is a little off in Z the software can calculate it in.
5, Software must have build in zero of all 3 axis, not only one button ‘Set Work Origin’ there set 0 for all 3 axis.
Really effective, make a program lthere is lock to SnapmakerJS, like artcam, this will lure MANY user to SM.
Sell it as a part of the new big carve, OFC take some money for it too.
This is just of my head right now…
Are there any guides available for milling PCBs with the Snapmaker? I have a couple of custom shields I’d like to develop for my Arduino Nano.
Not yet, will consider making the guides for milling PCB in the near future, thanks a lot.