Anyone have some tested and true settings to maximize speed and retain quality for the Sunlu Highspeed PLA 2.0? I’m considering converting to that vs. the Bambu Basic I usually use for my recreational use and small local-only vendor shows. I would like to retain quality prints and strong (thus the 2.0 PLA) but if I can save time that allows me to add more walls/infill or print larger prints. Right now with the 3 U1 printers inside my living area I limit them to 16 hours a day so that limits my print options (and yes, only printing PLA/PETG inside).
My research shows the U1 supports up to 500mm/s which converts to 40mm3/sec flow rate. I’ve setup the SUNLU in my slicer but speeds seem comparrable to the Snapmaker SnapSpeed PLA when I slice a model. Should I just the SSS built-into Snorca custom tune it to be faster? I"m sure others are doing this also and likely have the know-how better than my ramblings.
Filament requires a specific amount of energy to melt it, per unit volume. If the hot-end can only supply so much energy per second, that limits the flow rate, and the flow rate limits the print speed. So it’s not about how fast the printer can draw with the nozzle, it’s about how fast the filament can be melted.
Have you run a flow rate calibration test with your filament? Thats the first thing to do. It’s on the calibration menu (Orca and similar, top of the screen). It is the flow rate which ultimately limits the draw speed for the printer. Having run the flow rate calibration, take the maximum figure and derate it by 20% (80% of the maximum value) – the faster you try to shove filament through the hot-end, the more likely you are to get a nozzle clog. You’ll probably get a figure greater than the preset in the default filament profile, so you can edit the profile and save it as a custom profile for that specific filament.
Then there is a question of how stable the machine is. There are new high-flow hot-ends currently in beta trials, which trials indicate will roughly double the flow rate. That doubles the (possible) print speed, and the result is considerable shaking being reported. The U1 has all the kinetics at the top of the unit, so that doesn’t help. Standing it on a heavy, solid base (paving slab) will improve matters.
Having established how fast you can print (and tuned that into custom filament profiles), the slicer will try to run the printer at speeds limited by the least of:
Flow rate (mm³/s)
Maximum speeds in the printer settings
Speeds in the slicer settings for each type of feature
However fast the printer is commanded to run (in the G-Code), it can only run as fast as is limited in the firmware (which should be tuned to the ability of the mechanisms). This should be accounted for in the printer settings in the slicer.
Having tuned everything for maximum speed, you might not want to actually run it at maximum speed. Quality might suffer (or might not matter according to application). Vibration and/or noise could be excessive.
Thank you CrazyIvan, I always appreciate you taking the time to respond to my posts! You make some great recommendations and this might just be folly chasing a few saved minutes. I’ve seen those pavers people use for increasing mass for better stability and vibration control. My current setup is on a butcherblock rolling tool chest and seems pretty stable but it does wiggle no doubt.
I’ve printed a couple speed tests but results weren’t great with the Bambu PLA basic. I haven’t received the Sunlu HSPLA 2 yet but will certainly give those a run once I get it. Sunlu recommends nozzle temp of 23c0-260c when printing 300-600mm/s so certainly need the heat when flowing faster like you said. The U1 is rated up to 500mm/s so in theory it should be able to handle it and I believe the nozzles can go up to 300c. I wish I knew what Snapmakers Snapspeed PLA uses though I suspect it might be a close proximation to try with the Sunlu HSPLA at least at first. I’ve looked at the filament settings in Snorca and they do have a lot of different retraction and extrusion rates comparred to the Bambu PLA settings.
Still confirming it’s the settings in the slicer that code for the speeds and flow correct? Nothing has to be set on the printer (what version of filament is loaded on the screen, which is really limited options)?
Will run some tests to be sure, looks like Snorca will do flow rates ±20 so will start with that and if those all print well will try to bump it up and test again. If you know of any other good tests to try online feel free to let me know what you use.
Thanks ColdCoffee. That’s not good to hear, I appreciate your sharing. I don’t like brittle filament at all, I’ve had some Ziro brand that was pretty brittle also and broke a few times while printing. I’ve got a few rolls arriving this week so I’ll share once I test it in my printer.
I found if I used it up quickly it wasn’t too bad & actually printed well, but even though I have cereal boxes with desiccant in for each of the 4 ports (so never exposed or left out) it started to go brittle after a week??
All bits crossed you are OK - I use Sunlu’s Meta range and have never had an issue with that, so its something different about 2.0+?