really? so mac needs the display’s port instead of the mini usb needed for windows?
It does not seem to be able to update from the usb stick
He suggested trying the USB-C port (the display input) instead of the mini usb port, do you have one of those cable?
Sorry, brain fart.
Meant the mini-usb.
Typing faster than my brain can go.
Some people have been confused by all the different usb ports.
USB-A for flash drives.
Mini for connecting pc.
Hand controller uses usb-c (so you can use a standard usb-c cable to extend it)
-S
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I got cut off and could not answer anymore because I have a limit on the number of replies as a newbie. Thanks for all the help. Nothing seems to work.
I have managed to make it move directly from Luban but I have no idea how to focus or set origin.
Every time I try too it puts the laser lower than the bed in the left hand corner.
I can’t find the focus button in the software
The machine does work it seems to me that the usb-c port is defective. The screen gets power but not contact to the machine to do anything. The connector is very loose so I really suspect that’s the problem
Well, that’s unfortunate that either the touchscreen or USB port is dead, but at least getting a replacement from support should be straight forward.
Also unfortunate that the auto calibration routines are run from the touchscreen, so you’ll have to work around it manually, but it’s not too bad.
I can’t recall, but it sounds like you’re trying to do laser stuff. Here’s what the touchscreen does:
G54
* move the head to the correct X/Y/Z origin *
G92 X0 Y0 Z0
And that’s it.
The X/Y origin will be determined by the toolpath you’re working with, probably lower left or center of the workpiece? ncviewer.com can be used to preview the gcode and will show you where it starts if you turn on the option this option:
Z will depend on the in-focus position of the laser. An easy way to guess close is to turn the laser on to 0.5% power (M3 P0.5) and jog Z up and down until you see the smallest possible dot. If you want to refine it from there you’ll need a calibration pattern that cuts a line, move up/down, cuts another line, etc. I know that can be done in Lightburn, don’t know if there’s a way to do that in Luban. Alternatively, you could do it manually using a macro in Luban, it’s quite simple really.
The macro could look something like this, and every time you click play it’ll cut 1 line, move down, move to the right
G53 ; Native machine coordinates
G21 ; mm units
G91 ; Relative
M3 P70 ; 70% Power
G1 Y15 F120 ; Move up 15mm
M5 ; Laser Off
G0 X5 Y-15 Z-1 F3000 ; Move right, down, Z down
G90 ; Back to absolute
Once you know the best focus, say it’s 30mm as read on Z, subtract the thickness of the material, say 3mm as an example. So your laser focus distance is 27mm.
So to start a piece, go to the X/Y you want, and jog Z to 27+thickness of the material.
Then G54 and G92 X0 Y0 Z0 and you’re good to go.
I believe Luban will do some of those steps for you, but if not that’s how to do it manually.
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I can’t thank you enough. Such a great help but this is a little above my head for now. Support asked me for more info this morning then nothing. Not good. I think I have to work through this with a clear head. I have set it up now as 3d printer and cannot move the head close enough to the surface. It stops too high and will not go lower.
OK 3DP got it. So when bed leveling is on (M420 S1) the machine will not move to negative Z coordinates. You can change that by disabling bed leveling (M420 S0).
To run an auto calibration though, and just let the machine do its thing, do this: Is automatic level compensation working properly?
Don’t use G1029P11 though, you’ll want G1029P3 for a 3x3 grid to start, or G1029P5 for 5x5. The rest is the same though.
If you follow those instructions that will also reset where Z=0 is, so the nozzle will touch the bed.
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Support is typically a bit slow, sometimes they surprise me and reply right away, but it can be several days.
It was several weeks not long ago, they have picked up steam.
I have to wish you a wonderful xmas really. I did not understand much of that. Not that I am stupid. I run a tourist hotel with kayaking boats and photography and I am the instructor for it all but that was over my head. I do the service on 10 boats every year teach photography and kayaking all inside the arctic circle. But that’s well and truly over my head
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I’m happy to break it down more step-by-step, would probably make more sense when we both have time and you can be in front of the machine with the computer. It’s really not that bad, but I have a lot of experience to draw on - you’ll get there once you do it a few times. PM me if you want, or I’ll keep watching this thread.
I’ll trade you for some photography tips 
I also greatly enjoy photography. At least trade stories, ha.
Ian-robins@hotmail.com I will gladly help with what ever I can
https://www.viewbug.com/member/ianrobins
https://www.photocrowd.com/photographer-community/168741/
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I have the same issue with my A350 cabinet. Tried for months now to fix it without luck. No light, no recognition (icon) on the control, no power to the fan. So frustrating. Raising a support issue now.
/Thomas, Copenhagen,Denmark.
I got the tip to turn the cabinet on you should use the code M1010 S3 P100 to turn the lights on. You type it directly into the console. The fan is M1010 S4 P100 It has to be in capitals and the last number is % of max power.
Brent thanks so much for your help I am able to laser things now using Lightburn Thats all I can do but that is fine for now until I get the problem sort. Your help was amazing.
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Glad to help! Take care!