Hi All,
I apologize if I’m posting this on the wrong sub-forum as this is my 1st post and just got a new Snapmaker U1.
I’ve never printed with a Snapmaker so I’m wading in… 
Do most of you use the Snapmaker Orca slicer or the stand alone Orca?
Why did you choose that?
We’ve noticed on the 1st couple of prints it doesn’t seem to print quite as fast as the older Prusa Mini +
Should we consider the slicer to a faster print setting? What’s the max you’ve set the print speed to?
Thank you for your understanding, patience and help as we become acclimated and better (hopefully!)
Hello, don’t worry, someone will be along soon to put it in the correct topic category. You’ll soon get the hang of using a forum.
Also, you might find that we are used to more descriptive topic titles that take a little bit longer to type…
Welcome!
I have moved this to the software section, but its no biggy!!
I /personally/ use vanilla OrcaSlicer, partly as I’ve always used it since my first 3d printer.
Printing speeds will depend on slicer settings and filament used - Personally I would recommend calibrating what you are going to use the most & go from there
This video might help if you’ve not done calibration before, if teaching to suck eggs ignore 
So grateful for your and everyone’s help.
I work in a “we need it yesterday” environment so there’s precious little time to watch YT videos unless we can access the cut-to-the chase ones!
I watched a helpful video tonight (loading/removing PLA in your new Snapmaker U1. Got it all covered and in less than 3 minutes. Kudos to them!
I would so appreciate any other videos like that YT I found (after vetting some not so good ones) which others have found targeted and immediately helpful?
Now, that I’ve got the non-Snapmaker Shiny Silk PLA loaded … I’m trying to learn which are the most critical settings and where they’re located in the Snapmaker Orca Slicer and once set how one then slices the gcode to the flash drive?
If it’s anything like a Prusa, I’m hoping the LED screen will display the gcode file cut so I can then click Print to signal to the tool-head and bed to get the print started.
Any YTs, screenshots or FAQ you can please share would be so appreciated.
I teach 3D printing for free so I’m trying to help others as well.
Thank you so very much for all your kind help and understanding!
Hi there… Your help is so appreciated. I’m still stumbling along with this forum along with our new Snapmker U1. I wasn’t sure where to post this or how to reach that correct area. I saw there was a post re: anyone use the multi-color but when I clicked on the “blue” live link it never connected me to that. I didn’t want to earn a reputation for being lazy or worse but I’m trying to figure out how to “paint on” different colors on an stl file from Thingiverse. I’ve never used a multi-color 3D printer and I’m using the Snapmaker Orca slicer. Thank you!
NO worries, its hard to explain painting - I had a quick look on YT for you and this video shows most of the basics to get you going without being too long or complicated.
I personally find AI models to be a real PITA to paint as the surface tends to have alot of triangles
You are as good as gold.
I totally agree with you on the PITA with ai models.
I actually have a Thingiverse model (which can be created poorly as well). I’ve attached that just so you see what I;m trying to paint on. We have some library patrons who think ai will just paint on colors … if they just TELL ai (not ask it). Seriously. Thank you!!
(Attachment KUMATY_Trekking.3mf is missing)
Sorry, I didn’t realize you can;t upload 3mfs here. Hopefully, I’ve attached
the stl with a jpg of it.
Thank you for all your understanding and patience.
New users can’t attach in uploads but I think the jpg may have uploaded from a screenshot of the Thingiverse model. So sorry.
Yeah if you ever need to upload a .3mf you’ll need to .zip it first
Painting models is really about the time and effort you are prepared to put in vs what the model is for?
Thank you for sharing that 3mfs must be zipped 1st.
It’s a wedding gift for a co-worker and I ignorantly thought it might be easier with our multi-color Snapmaker.
Have you found it easier to just hand paint color on with a paintbrush?
Thank you again.
the paint tool’s kinda made for parts like those hats and backpacks, it maps to toolheads. is the gift one color per part or gradients?
I so apologize for this question but I’m trying to download the Snapmaker Orca Slicer from here… https://github.com/Snapmaker/OrcaSlicer/releases/tag/v2.4.0 but it’s all in an Asian language. Am I at the correct link? How might I download the English version? Thank you kindly, Forrest Gump!
Thank you so much for replying.
THe gift is supposed to have each color on each area as it appears in the Thingiverse model.
It’s been so crazy lately I’m not sure if I was able to upload or share the jpg of how it’s supposed to look with the multi-color print.
I’ve never done a multi-color print other than fixing the coros in the Slicer Color Bar and swapping PLA as it gets printed.
Thank you again.
I now see you must scroll down past 23 pages and on the botton is the windows 64 installer.
Thank you so much!
Sorry for the barrage of questions… but would you know if it makes much of a difference if when creating a multi-color print you use the Regular Orca Slicer -vs- the Snapmaker Orca Slicer?
Thank you so kindly!
Sorry, but we’ve all had to spend a lot of time learning, and you will have to as well. There are no short cuts. Be grateful there is YT video content at all – until recently, there wasn’t.
sounds like the paint tool’s your friend then, map the colors onto the toolheads and it’ll handle it. good luck with the gift
