Snapmaker official response to print head gouging?

Here is an example of what I mean. This was before I did the sensor adjustment and recalibration. is it supposed to be like this ? I marked various points with a red arrow to show where I am not sure about the output… In some cases it is as if the nozzle has ploughed through the numeral, I did see the filament go backwards through the nozzle so I suppose Z retraction is happening… In some cases there is clearly too much material - maybe I should have reduced nozzle flow to 90% or even less? Still, I suppose I should really fix the sensor position and do this again before touching anything else. Thanks.

Once you have adjusted the sensor try the 5x5 calibration, but use an index card if you have one, instead of the calibration card.

Google search for proper initial layer height and check out the images. :blush:

Hello everyone, I assemble my printer I check all cables it’s in good position. First time when I turn it on 3D printer module go down till make a damage on my heating bed, ant that happen from first step on guide when it’s automaticty start doing auto calibration. Later O try to take out that heated bed, for check how much he’s gonna go down so he’s go full down. Maybe somebody know how I can fix that. I think to put laser module and the start printer cause on laser are camera so I think when he see where is his minimum point, maybe it’s calibrate properly and then I can install newest software update. Thanks for answer and have good weekend :blush:

Assemble the laser module, then you don´t have to run the initial calibration with the print head.
Install the latest firmware from forum:

I think I may have found another potential reason that for 3D print bed gouging:

There are two types of M4 x 10 screws - Socket Head and Flat Head. The print on the bag is quite small, and that’s the only indication that you have one bag vs. the other.

If you use up the Flat Head screws in assembling the machine, and instead use Socket Head screws to attach the heated bed to the platform, you’ll have an uneven surface.

I found the text EXTREMELY small and non-obvious, and in fact put my heated bed on with 20 socket head screws - when it requires 22. I looked in the toolkit and found the other bag of M4 x 10s, and happily installed the last screws.

I noticed that most of my screws were not counter-sunk - they were poking up above the surface of the heated bed. But then I noticed that two of them WERE counter-sunk, leaving a nice, flat surface for the magnetic print bed.

That’s when I realized - I had used 20 socket head screws, and then grabbed the last two from the Flat Head bag.

Snapmaker - you REALLY need to make it much more obvious that there are two kinds of M4 x 10 screws. It’s CRITICAL to use the Flat Heads on your heated bed, or you’ll have hills in the print surface.

I wonder if some of the people having gouging issues only intermittently are putting the bed on and taking it off, and sometimes accidentally using socket heads, and sometimes correctly using flat heads.

EDIT: I know this is my fault since I missed it in the manual, since a bunch of people on the FB forum were…er…kind enough to point that out. I’m just trying to point it out to others, that’s another detail you can miss.

1 Like

So… I found this post about 2 hours too late…

I started my first print after following the instructions for bed leveling (which is one of the main reasons I picked up the Snapmaker. automatice bed leveling), then started my print.
It looked like the first layer was doing a nice VERY flat 1sy layer so I let it run. However, that very flat first layer was actually the print head starting to gouge the black print bed. I partially attribute this to the sample PLA sent being black. If it was white or some other contrasting color I would have known right away that something was wrong because I wouldn’t see any white filament. I finally caught it when I went to check on it and saw what was going on and stopped it. I was printing some face mask clips for my wife and most of them (3 out of 4) left a light gouge of a few layers but no filament. It almost looks like burn-in that you would get form leaving a phone screen on too long, but it’s defiantly cut into the bed.
One clip that was printing on the front left looks like it dug in AND also left a few layers of black filament. It’s dug in pretty well so I doubt I’d get it all out.
Before coming here I flipped the bed and put some parchment paper under it in case the bed heating up started to melt any of the filament and recalibrated. This time I fudged the instructions a bit and instead of stopping when the calibration slip starts to fold up, I raised it by .05mm (or whatever the lowest is) and then tried pulling the slip all the way out and pushing back in. If I couldn’t push it in from the outside, I raised it again and then saved the config.
I then started a new print and so far it is working better (I won’t really know until it’s done.

Yeah, bummer. This seems to be the #1 complaint with people - bed gouging.

Unfortunately, there are a number of root causes, and their documentation is not quite up to snuff.

Sounds like you sorted it out - good on you.

I don’t mean to downplay the disappointment, but I wouldn’t worry about a gouge that was the depth of one layer - you can put blue painters tape over it to give a smooth surface again, and hopefully it should be good. You can also flip the print surface over and use the other side.

I’ve done 3D printing for a couple of years, and unfortunately, gouged print beds are super common, in my experience.

My advice: whenever you’re starting a new leveling process, or a new print, stand there with your hand on the power button until you’re sure you’re in the clear. The safest bet is first layer is fully laid down, but that could take 10-15 minutes to an hour for a big print. Still - I would not leave the printer unattended until at least the second layer.

1 Like

Unfortunately it looks like it’s still not good.
One strap came out just ok. It had a lot of stringing, the bottom wasn’t flat and it looks like the layer adhesion wasn’t good (I suspect this is because the first layer, while looking decent during printing, was actually a bit too loose.
The other two straps look like they again gouged a layer or two and the parts felt welded onto the print bed. They actually snapped while trying to get them off. I had to heat the bed up to its max to try to soften them up a bit and this still took a lot of work to get them off. No amount of bending the print bed helped and they needed to be rigorously scraped.
So, during the same print job I had one where the first layer and subsequent layers were too loose, and 2 other objects where the first layer dug into the print bed.
I’ve already reached out to support to see about getting a replacement and will have to mess with what I have until I can figure out what is going on, because it almost looks like a warped bed or something.
I’ll have to try the steps I’ve seen to fix the sensor placement and hope that’s it.
The product itself, at least as far as the quality of parts and sturdiness of the build are phenomenal! This thing is solidly built with no wobble or anything so it’s not like I think they tried skimming money to save costs, but I do think they could probably had a lot more beta testers to run this thing through it’s paces.
I’ll try to post pics of everything I have so far by the weekend

Ah - it sounds like you might join us on this other thread:

1 Like


If your having half your bed too close and half too far then it sounds like a leveling issue. I would be happy to help you the best I can. To start try checking out these threads:

SM2 Bed Leveling 101
SM2 Bed Leveling

So why must we move the module lower on the z axis mount? Why can’t you leave the module in the normal position and adjust the sensor height?

@dharris2112 The screws are hidden in original place, so you have to lower the module to get to the screws…

Thanks. I didn’t have the machine in front of me. I won’t have access to it again until tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes…

I have this issue after I updated my firmware and the print head ruined my heated bed; now it wont heat up… what gives…

the X and Y axes are also wrong…

Make sure you have everything assembled properly (nuts down) and plugs are in the correctly

Yep, before this firmware I made a few successful prints… but the start location 0,0 seem to always been off the page/build plate…

contact support:
they will probably send you a new bed.

Only small prints do well on our A350. The plate is so warped that anything beyond a certain size means the head scrapes at one area and the filament does not even touch in another. Leveling? no such thing on this unit. It does not work. Auto-level is useless, and manual only allows you to see how warped the bed is. No correction seems to be applied. Luban? Useless. I have bought .05mm brass shim stock, and will use it to level the bed better. Then we will use Cura and Octoprint to have the ability to actually control the A350. No, this will not void the warranty, no more than installing a different operating system will void the warranty of a computer. Check US law on this.