I have been using snapmaker for several months now and would consider myself an “expert”, however lately I’m completely lost. I really hope you other guys can help.
My issue is that what worked a month ago isn’t working today.
I have a Snapmaker 2.0 slicing files through Cura using the Snapmaker profiles.
Recently my prints have gone wrong. Typically it’s already at bed-level before they really get started they go wrong.
Most of times the filament don’t stick to the bed (feels like the adhesion is not the same everywhere)
Bed is 70 degrees, filament 200-205 degrees.
I use the calibration, but if I calibrate like I used to with the paper folding, then the filament now is way too close to the bed (some places). I try to compensate by doing the manual adjust (0,3mm z offset), but even with that (see picture) its still completely off.
My filaments have been open for a few months now and are not stored in airtight containers. Could it make such a huge difference?
I try to adjust the Z offset further once printing, but then it pushes up (unload) the filament for some strange reason. I don’t see why it would do that. If I try to print from USB, the filament sensor wont make me start although its filled with filament.
I’m really in a hard place at the moment. Hope i can get some help.
Is your bed actually flat? Get out a long steel ruler and hold the edge of the ruler across the bed. If you can see light underneath, it’s not flat. Check across, likely on each line, both in the x and y direction, and check diagonally both ways. If your bed is distorted you’re going to have weird outcomes. It is also likely going to be different with different bed temperatures.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert, just been watching way too many discussions about flat and level surfaces lately
Auto leveling can only compensate for small variations, and only when the variations are read by the sensor. If you do lot of Lexington of the build plate to remove prints it could be bed leveling issues. But If you have been printing for a while I am more inclined to think it is a build surface issue.
Have you cleaned the bed with isopropyl? When you look at bed can you see areas that look a little more shiny then others? Have you replaced the bed at all since you started printing?
I had similar problems with my v1. Things were great for several months, then I started having adhesion problems. But if I stopped and started again, the area that hadn’t adhered was now fine, and new section of the build plate wouldn’t adhere. Cleaning with alcohol helped some, but just letting the whole first layer print spaghetti, then restarting worked the best.
It turns out that my build plate was dusty, and printing without adhering to the build plate was picking up the dust. So a second attempt worked because the dust was now removed. Once I realized that it was dust, I noticed that it did not take much. I couldn’t feel or see the dust on the plate. Once I removed the finished build, I could see a slight color variation when the plate was cleaner.
Most of my adhesion problems went away when I started covering my build plate when not in use (I don’t have the enclosure).
In other threads, people have had issues with the bed being warped due to install. You might check that all of the screws are still tight. The vibrations from printing top and bottom surfaces can cause screws to loosen.
I know skin oils have been an issue for me over time. Handling the build plate leaves oils on it that cause poor adhesion. These oils can sometimes be hard to remove even with isopropyl. But you can see them because they tend to by shiny compared to the rest of the built plate.
I have finally managed to adjust the bed better by fastening so screws better etc… I’m printing from the USB cable. If I try to change the Z offset while printing on the control, the printer unload the filament. Quite strange.
Is it possible to change the Z offset, it you while printing the brim can tell its wrong?
