Check out this mod:
I bought it from him (the resin part).
Works perfectly fine and you can see the without air assist and with air assist results at the end of the video. Day and night difference!
You can use any compressor you have/want that has sufficient power.
what do you mean by controls?
I think he means an app that directly streams the commands to the printer, like Luban can.
The STL for this mod is available at GitHub - shurushetr/awesome-snapmaker: Curated list of things that help you make something awesome with Snapmaker machines. with permission from Raagnarix.
Then there is a plethora of them, but through com port (mini usb on snapmaker).
Why, oh WHY, would you it out a $1000/$800/$600 high powered laser engraver cutter/engraver WITHOUT the previous & industry standard camera positioning system critical to aligning tool & objectā¦ ESPECIALLY when that capability was implemented and written into the existing software? It costs an additional, what, $7.50 to implement the camera? How is one to align the laser with various objects (and be specific if you believe you have a workable fine-tuned, slamming process). I really needed that camera and believed to 40w included it. cheers Jim
A proper, repeatable alignment fence is always going to be your most accurate result. Even on the 1.6W and 10W module, I never used the camera. It was awkward, janky, and too inaccurate for the results I wanted. A hard, rigid locating method allows you to simply slam your object against it, do some math, and your project is perfectly aligned every time. Similar to industrial CNC processes.
Iāve made guides on this for the 1.6/10W modules (as I do not have the 20/40W module currently), and with this setup no cameras are needed, no fiddling around with alignment, Iāve never even used the framing option. The only thing that ruins my projects is if I accidentally swap the project to imperial and forget to go back to metric, or if I get the actual laser speed/power settings wrong. Location is never an issue.
Iām more perturbed by the fact they havenāt made location methods built in for finding these proper zeroes for origin.
I donāt disagreeā¦ yet a camera against whose picture in Lyman against which you can place the engraving is helpfulā¦ even setting up that fence for the first time. Iāve used the camera in the past to show me where on the build plate (or engraving bed) to place said fence. The show boundaries would help if you could stop it at the extremes and mark the cross hairs. The cross hairs COULD be good either for boundary or center EXCEPT to have sharp lines you have to put the tool so low you canāt mark the reference points out itās high & unfocused so youāre guessing at the the reference lines. Itās always taken 3 to a dozen attempts to get fencing set up. There needs to be an EASY, QUICK, and RELIABLE way to set up a reference point and one or two axis references. For that amount of money one shouldnāt have to destroy product after product getting aligned (to .05 mm). Just one userās j thoughts.