Numbers only matter if they’re serving a purpose. Running tests just to test tolerances for the sake of tolerances isn’t productive. If you truly have a need for a full bed 100% accurate bed; more power to you. I’ll tell you in printing my cosplay parts, I can print the whole bed. Nothing crazy; I did buy one of the new beds. $39 bucks, contact support.
Yep, it was an issue with the carriage of the printer being bent. I had contacted support about it and they’re sending me a new one, I’m hoping that replacing that will fix the issue for me but I’ll have to see.
yes it was on latest
i have already had new linear y rails (see my other thread) it didn’t make much difference to the print, it did make a difference to the linear mesh slope
as part of the troubleshooting the slope the platform was removed and tested on flat granite surface and no evidence of warped platform could be found.
take a look at these bed maps, they use the same platform, same heated bed just different build surfaces and the printer delivers pretty much the same results around the edges despite the deformation being very different - which shouldn’t be the case…
at this point i am content to let support investigate
@scyto yeah I’m definitely going to ship it as a frame out of spec, you measured the new rails and they showed no degree variation, so it’s now down to either the frame, or the heated bed.
You remember a while back about the guide rails? This is the (original) reason people went with that mod, along with bed wobble because of loose carriages, but I think it’s wiser to get down to the source of the issue instead of compensating for it. It’ll probably be cheaper than the rail mod anyway, I paid over $200 for the rails and necessary hardware when all was said and done. I never actually did it, decided against it in the end so they’re just sitting in a box and I advise that people not do that mod, it could possibly hide a loose carriage(s) leaving it unaddressed until something else goes wrong. But I digress.
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agree totally
if they send me a new platform and it fixes, awesome.
what it does tell me if that’s the issue then the ABL (pretty certain we don’t have UBL) can’t cope with sort of deformation some of us see. I have seen old marlin posts for other machines with large bed plates and githib issues that are similar, mostly seem to have died off with the move to UBL…
anyhoo, i am fine waiting on support
oh and for folks asking why is this an issue here is a benchy in the center
and a benchy on the same print job in another part of the bed
as you can see, a vast difference in extrusion (yes i know the first is not the best either, point is comparative)
and this is what they look like after i let the first 4 layers complete
this is better than before the y rails change when i printed many objects and one went spaghetti on me and affected the other models, lol, forgot to take a picture.
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cool breast plate, what’s it for? (i am not clever enough to figure out what character it is for!)
Space marine broski 
you ever at GSC, lmk.
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You mean like the Warhammer-40K stuff based on the old Ian Miller drawings? They had some pretty cool designs, thirtysome years ago. Still going strong, I guess.
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180 mil dollar company this year. It’s doing pretty well. I’ve been playing since the 90s.
I moved to a glass plate after 6 months of fighting with the stock plate. Amazing difference. I agree with other comment stop testing start making. If precision is that critical, you might need a higher end printer. Review finishing youtube’s also. I found many people have a complete routine to finish their projects beyond printing.
same issue on glass - i have a real issue - bed wobble.
And the issue does cause ‘making’ issues.
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You mean you don’t? Not being judgmental but your comment makes it sound like you don’t have a whole lot of experience with printers by stating other random peoples experiences instead of your own. It just sounds kind of odd. That aside, product finish isn’t part of this issue so I don’t even know why you brought it up.
Finally, I have an Ultimaker S5 Pro and my Snapmaker can match its print quality with tuning, so by ruling out the Snapmaker just because of cost alone screams ignorance. The only thing it can’t match my S5 on is speed, but that’s more of a consequence of the method of operation rather than Snapmaker’s price or quality.
How thick of a sheet glas do you use and can you refer to a manufacturer:)? Thanks!
@IFS GO-3D makes a really good one and AFAIK they are the only ones that make glass beds specifically for the Snapmaker. They are 3mm thick and is what I use, it’s a really good glass bed.
https://www.go-3dprint.com/search.php?search_query_adv=Snapmaker%20§ion=product
At this point I haven’t been printing anything that requires a “polished” appearance. I’ve just been learning the capabilities of my equipment. My reference was to the research I’ve been doing. I’m not sure sharing research is odd, but beneficial guidance to someone seeking insight.
Yeah sorry, I was having a seriously bad day yesterday, ornery as a mule, I’m normally not like that, my bad. I should’ve had a snickers!
Normally it is beneficial, it’s just off topic. A lot of us that have been commenting in this thread have been along for the entire ride with @scyto, one of his rails had a loose carriage slider, which was surprising because the rails were just replaced under warranty, but also not surprising, so the bed was rocking back and forth causing problems with first layers.
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@scyto How are you generating that spreadsheet heatmap of calibration? I have been suffering with something very similar and want to track it down.