I’ve been through the broken endswitch already 
Thanks- I will check that again. I don’t think that that’s reason but if the hotend swap and retraction doesn’t work- it will be the next option.
And yes I know the values get resetted after each update. I usually run some calibration gcodes after the update (got a little note with all)
It certainly is not the reason for your bad results - that’s why I said “totally unrelated” 
But this:
really looks like being a circle deformed by backlash.
Coming back to this topic after the holidays. Snapmaker sent me some new Axis Cover Stripes, a new Hotend Extension cable as well as a brand new standard hotend.
I demounted the cage and Print Head and checked all axis for Play. I couldn’t figure out any noticeable play or rattling in the sliders.
Now same G Code- the layer inconsistency is still there with a brand new hotend but now newly added is the Temperature swing feature 
it jumps between 220 and 200 deg with a set point of 210. I now need to figure out if the extension or hotend has some loose contact 
If this problem gets solved I will move on to the retraction issue. Maybe the hot filament gets dragged too far out. I will be also trying again using a Bimetal hotend if this does any difference.
I have really no ideas anymore rather than „just buy a new Print head“ 
So I used my old Hotend again- did some cold pulls and then changed the PID Setting from D17.0 to D106.25
Now takes longer to really hit the set point but it doesn’t swing around anymore with ±2deg
IMO it looks better now (you can see the lower one is a little bit more consistent). I will try to disable the retraction now and see if this does any difference in case the filament gets dragged to far back into the Heatbreak
The underextrusion is real
I don’t really know why this is happening. Literally have no clue on this
Did you at any time calibrate your E-steps? Perhaps you did something wrong then? if not: Just crank up filament flow in the slicer for a test. Looking at your picture, I’d perhaps go to 110% flow rate o so…
Absolutely did both. My E Steps can’t be more accurate (being 260.1) and the flow rate did not do any difference with 110% 
I would add some thermal paste to the thermistor in the hotend, this should take care about your swinging temperature.
To the cooling zone should also some paste added. Did you check your new hotend about thermal paste?
What slicer do you use, may share your gcode? (sorry if this was answered previously)
Why not set your live z offset a bit lower to get more squish?
I’m sorry, I just realize we’re asking the same questions again… which I guess is some way of saying: We have no clue… I mean: Some effect flow rate must have… if 110% does not do anything, I’d go desperate and try 150% or so… If the print looks the same with 100% and 150%, I’d just say: No ideas anymore - perhaps I’d try to factory-reset the whole machine.
So yes I did tried 150% today and it indeed does a difference.
My guess is towards the extrusion gear but rather heavy or any signs of non visible spurs on the filament is the case. Also I would say my Curtain rod runs totally fine.
I’m running out of ideas
Changing the PID setting from D17.0 to 106.25 changed a lot on the swings! IMO PID autotune would be crucial but reading through all the threads it doesn’t seem to work on Snapmaker machines
I can’t upload any videos of the swing but on my old Hotend it was between 198-202 while set point was 200.
The new one was swinging heavily between 201-218 while set point was 210. Idk if I was just unlucky with the Hotend or Snapmaker changed something on the thermistor.
That’s so weird! From the top, 150% looks just right, from the side it’s overextruded and overheated… The curtain rod should be just fine - the Snapmaker metal rod is not worse or better than such a solution IMHO… I admit defeat, something is going on here which is really strange… Perhaps one last idea: Did you perchance have the wrong nozzle diameter selected in your slicer? That might explain these very strange inconsistencies… actually, it might explain them pretty well… 
These are my settings in Cura. Also tried using Orca Slicer but so far I can’t say if the profile that someone posted here in the forum is any good or I just don’t know how to properly handle the Slicer.
(If anyone has a working Orca Profile I’d be happy to use it!)
Orca, you get the profile when you select your machine, they are official available.
You didn’t show your nozzle diameter in the picture, please have another look.
In Cura, the nozzle diameter is in the Extruder configuration.
I found the reason for my underextrusion. Since I’m running the newest Speed firmware I forgot to turn down the Speed and probably the Hotend flow wasn’t high enough to keep up with 100mm/s that why it caused some deformations and Gaps.
Still the Layerlines are not consistent and anywhere close to perfect… but at least some problem is solved
Best regards
I have often printed at 100 mm/s - this was no problem. But it may hint on a problem with your extruder still. Something that comes to my mind - your photo shows that you have the version 2 of the single extruder toolhead. If I remember correctly, the feeder wheel (the gear that “bites” into the filament and pushes it into the hotend) is a seperate part that is pressed onto the stepper motor axis (as opposed to the version one where the axis was the feeder wheel itself). If for whatever reason the extruder wheel has slip, it might explain the problems. Can you check if the feeder wheel is sitting tight on the stepper axis?
Hi Hauke!
Thanks for this feedback- I think we found the solution to my problem
You can’t really see the wear when its inside the print head but today I dissembled it to check if it can be tightened.
I realized my extruder gear does show some wear and that could be the issue why I sometimes may get minor slip and also be the reason why my E steps are that high at 260
The problem is that I can’t change this gear or I don’t know how.
OK, so obviously I was wrong about the gear being replacable with the V2… So two options that come to my mind - the first one the obvious: Contact Snapmaker support if they have a replacemant part, and if not, get a new toolhead. Option two: put ~1-2 mm spacers between stepper motor and its mounting point. It will make the worn out place of the feeder wheel move that 1-2 mm to the left and a still pristine part of the gear is touching the filamnet. I seem to remember another user here in the forum did exactly that.
