How to setup U1 with vanilla Orca

U1 Toolchanger
1

After setup U1 a few days ago, I just added U1 printer profiles and Snapmaker PLA profiles in vanilla Orca, then printed couple of 2-hours print with vanilla Orca.

  1. Both prints came out okay but prime tower failed stick to the halfway through the print. No issue when printing with SNOrca. My guess is either printer profile is in correct or both printer and filament profile are not right.
  2. I can’t get the camera to work, Despite have a reserved local IP for U1, google result doesn’t work for me. Can it be done?

I couldn’t find any tutorial on how to setup U1 with vanilla Orca. Can someone please share the knowledge? Thanks

2

Out of curiosity: why use vanilla Orca rather than SnOrca? Is that because you want to support more printers than the U1, and you think they will be better supported in Orca?

3

It is recommended to directly take a screenshot or share the 3MF file so that everyone can determine whether it is a configuration issue.

4

Vanilla Orca gives you more controls and new features, but I don’t know who is updating U1 stuff in vanilla Orca (if it is update regualry at all). My eyes are light sensitive, SnOrca dark mode only works partially.

5

I’m completely new to 3d printing, so others can give you better advice.

In my case I set up plain vanilla Orca Slicer on Windows PC, usb cable from PC to printer with ethernet adapter. Using Paxx12 custom firmware rather than the standard Snapmaker firmware. LAN mode only.

It’s fast. No delays on slicing or sending to printer. The Paxx12 firmware allows a great camera stream on your PC.

You do lose a little bit in my setup. LAN mode means I can’t view/control print outside my local network (although I believe there is a way to do that if you want). You don’t have the U1’s preprocessing screen (although maybe it’s possible if you just send the gcode to the machine which I haven’t tried yet).

I just used the default U1 profile in Orca Slicer with only the modification of enabling multiple build plates. I generally have been using the BIQU Frostbite plate with PLA and PETG with good results.

May or may not be the direction you’d like to go, but it’s simple and works if you want to go with plain Orca Slicer. Might want to do filament calibration or play around with the settings a little if the tower’s not sticking.