I was trying to troublesheet an issue with the toolhead and I seem to have shorted either the thermistor or the hotend (the hotend was not on at the time). When I did, the lights in the enclosure went off, and I had to restart the printer to gain back control of the enclosure, but the printer stopped reading data from the thermistor. I tried another hotend, and still no luck. Laser toolhead works fine, so it’s not the controller.
Is the toolhead gone for good? What can I do about it besides getting a new one?
Hopefully it is the connector, The pin on the connector has fallen out for a number of people.
and if not hopefully it is just the tool head.
i am not familiar enough with the other tool heads to say with certainty that the controller is still in good shape, not sure what happens on those pins for the other heads.
although other examples of fried controllers were typically from being plugged backwards and frying things, and other modules were usually affected in those cases as far as i know. so you might be okay.
Looks like one of the thermistor connector pins is slightly shorter than the others, but it doesnt look broken or anything, so it mightve always been this way. I also dont think it’s short enough to affect connection.
you can grab it with some needle nose to pull it out further or cut the shrink tape to push in from the back, wont hurt to try
the connectors have little wings that are supposed to snap into the plastic housing, barely visible
but they dont always end up doing their job sometimes they get bent during assembly too
i actually had them send me some extra of those connectors from the PCB to there where the hotend plugs in because it sucks pretty bad and i was having some problems with it
i was having a very hard time getting the connectors to push together
i think it will show resistance based on the temp between 2 of the pins on the hotend side so one is ground and other is signal i think, so no that won’t work i dont think
you might try to slide the shrink tube out of the way to pull the pin completely out and try to reinsert it, its probably in the wrong way and can’t hook.
furthermore,
its relatively easy to get to the board
The upper right corner has the connector with 4 black wires, this is the port
24v pwm temp dgrnd is the labeling of those pins on the rear side.
may see issues with the board physically?
i was going to suggest trying to connect directly, but they used a dif. connector because they have done a crossover in the cable for some reason it looks like, but maybe with a little ambition you could make something to try to terminate to test if it works outside of that jumper cable
probably something like those jumpers used for breadboards would at least let you see if the temp readout can work or not
or you could at least ohm out each pin on the jumper cable
if it does end up being the jumper cable and we can confirm that i can send you one actually, i have some extras, but otherwise you gona need to talk to support@snapmaker.com
im irritated as can be about the fact that they did a crossover cable with a separate connector for the hotend, makes bypass for troubleshooting not really a thing dick move snapmaker
If I stick the multimeter in the thermistor pins, shouldn’t I get a voltage reading from the toolhead pinging the sensor?
And from my experience from dealing with snapmaker support is they waste a lot of time with stuff that obviously isn’t wrong (that whole “is it plugged into an outlet?” tech support nonsense). They also try to push you to buy new parts, so I figured I had a better shot asking the community before going over to them.
I dont know that you will see anything from the socket, its an input not an output
maybe?
you probably dont have much of a choice, if you write up an email explaining the situation that occured that you told us here when your lights went out and now you dont get temperature readings, and explain that you looked at the connector and confirmed the pins are terminating and have tried another hotend im dont think theres much to discuss junk wise, just be clear and concise
even reference this thread so they can see what all was discussed.
if you dont feel its the jumper cable and dont feel its the controller, it must be at the board. maybe if you re-seat the connector on the board itself the problem will go away?
maybe you can ohm out all the pins on the toolhead cable too?
if you really wana theres a support firmware that reassigns the toolhead port to a different one for troubleshooting purposes i have a link for someplace.
assuming that there is nothing wrong with the controller the 3dp module is $115 usd to replace so thats as bad as its gona get
I successfully used the laser, so it’s definitely not the controller.
That’s actually not as bad as I thought. I thought I’d be down around $400 given how much the printer costs.
I guess I’ll give support a go then.
dick move snapmaker